Pop Top Arm Repair

Note: this article is still in edit mode. I hope to have it fine tuned soon.

Given that these parts support a fair amount of weight, use this information at your own risk. Consult your Vanagon Bentley. This repair was done on a 1981 Westfalia.

Each end of the pop top push bar is prone to wearing through. The ends are housed at a pivot point between the upper and lower arms. The relatively narrow end of each upper arm eventually cuts into the push bar. There is a risk that it could cut right through. The hole on this part of upper arm also wears as it rubs on the push bar ends. General opinion is that these parts should be inspected and repaired sooner than later.

Parts description and normal operation.

The author recently viewed version of ETKA that showed the Westfalia as having a lift assist on one side. It's highly likely the factory installed one on each side. The assist system is made up of a cable and spring in each lower arm. The cable has a large bolt shaped part on one end, a "Z" termination on the other, and passes through a spring. The "bolt" seats at bottom of spring, exits lower arm, follows a curve on big end of upper arm with "Z" securing to a hole. As the top is lowered, the cables pull the springs open tensioning the springs. This effectively "takes some weight off" the user. As the top is raised, the springs are allowed to contract which aides in lifting. Some Westfalias may only have one spring working or none at all. Since the pop top typically spends most of it's time, the springs stay expanded, putting the cable and springs under stress. 

Strut assembly removal.

With top down, resting but not latched, secure upper arm to lower arm at bracket ends with suitable wire or rope. Ensure that wire or rope is passed through upper hinge then around lower arm so it won't slip down the arms. If this happens, the arms will spring apart with considerable force. Remove fasteners at upper hinges. Needle nose vice grips may help hold carriage bolts from turning. Remove pins from lowers. Raise and secure pop top to provide room for strut arm assembly removal.

A possible alternate way to remove strut assembly:
Raise top to full height. Prop top safely. Though springs in arms will be almost totally UN-compressed there might be slight tension remaining. Regardless. If stop pins installed correctly, remaining tension should not be an issue. Remove fasteners and/or hinges. If prop not in the way, there may be enough room to take out strut assembly as one piece. If not enough room, one might consider removing the stop pins, then allow lower arm to move up taking tension off cable. Regardless, remove the "Z" end of cable from arm, then take apart one side while all is still in Westy. The author has not tried this.

With assembly on bench, "Z" part of cable can be removed from hole with needle nose pliers. If not, remove stop pin, safely let upper arm rotate further, remove "Z". Remove nut & bolt, tap arms off push bar. Check cable(s) for signs of excessive wear. When a cable fails, and user is lowering or raising top, weight of top effectively, and suddenly, increases. Inspect ends of push bar and hold in big end of upper arm for wear. To date, a common repair approach is to install a sleeve in hole at big end of upper arm to act as a bearing and spread out pressure. A bushing made of bronze or copper can be epoxied in place. Better yet, weld in a steel bushing. Lubricate these parts. Though likely not needed, the author epoxied a piece of 5/8" bolt into the push bar ends to add support.

Possible issues:
Pivot pin push nuts may get deformed during removal. Both sizes of pivot pin and push nut can likely be sourced from a generic auto parts store in SAE size.
Strut assembly removed, arms still under tension (still secured to each other): Preplan for a safe and slow way to release the arms once unsecured.

Installation or assembly: pop top safely propped up ~ 1/4 way, work assembly into position, install lower fasteners, slowly release the arms, line up upper hinge (top may need to be lowered for this to line up bolt holes). Install Phillips screws most of the way in, caulk the carriage bolt heads. Install bolts mostly tight, final tighten Phillips then bolts.