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	<title>Prop shaft alignment - Revision history</title>
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	<updated>2026-04-28T02:12:46Z</updated>
	<subtitle>Revision history for this page on the wiki</subtitle>
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		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Prop_shaft_alignment&amp;diff=273&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>MariusStrom: Categorize and copy-edit.</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Prop_shaft_alignment&amp;diff=273&amp;oldid=prev"/>
		<updated>2010-06-03T07:46:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Categorize and copy-edit.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;table class=&quot;diff diff-contentalign-left&quot; data-mw=&quot;interface&quot;&gt;
				&lt;col class=&quot;diff-marker&quot; /&gt;
				&lt;col class=&quot;diff-content&quot; /&gt;
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				&lt;tr class=&quot;diff-title&quot; lang=&quot;en&quot;&gt;
				&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot; style=&quot;background-color: #fff; color: #222; text-align: center;&quot;&gt;← Older revision&lt;/td&gt;
				&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot; style=&quot;background-color: #fff; color: #222; text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Revision as of 07:46, 3 June 2010&lt;/td&gt;
				&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot; class=&quot;diff-lineno&quot; id=&quot;mw-diff-left-l1&quot; &gt;Line 1:&lt;/td&gt;
&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot; class=&quot;diff-lineno&quot;&gt;Line 1:&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;This is an outline of procedure to reduce or eliminate syncro propeller shaft (drive shaft) vibrations&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;. Often these vibrations occur at road speeds of around 50-70 kph. Assumption made that propeller shaft not bent or otherwise damaged, and that rear transmission and front differential are in good working order. Also this procedure is geared towards the stock VW propeller shaft, not after market shafts with slip joints and double cardan joints etc&lt;/del&gt;.  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;This is an outline of procedure to reduce or eliminate syncro propeller shaft (drive shaft) vibrations.  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*first make sure the u joints have no play at all. Try and move the bearing cups and yokes. They yokes should be snug and smooth moving. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;== Symptoms ==&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*if U joints need replacing due to worn or frozen bearings, then Precision brand, part #813 will fit if grease nipple port is plugged with short bolt. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Often these vibrations occur &lt;/ins&gt;at &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;road speeds of around 50-70 kph &lt;/ins&gt;(&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;30&lt;/ins&gt;-&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;45 mph&lt;/ins&gt;).  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*make sure the internal bushings &lt;/del&gt;at &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;guibo end &lt;/del&gt;(&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;rubber damper end) are not worn out. U&lt;/del&gt;-&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;joint yoke should be a tight fit with no slop (and shaft&amp;amp;nbsp;greased). If bushings and or yoke shaft worn then take to machinist to fit new bronze (or Oilite) bushings and have yoke shaft machined to remove wear and to fit. Or machine it yourself if you can. There are two bushings, one at the end and one deeper inside driveshaft. They can be removed with a 1&amp;quot; tap. In the UK there is a replacement poly bushing available for the end bushing. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*guibo should be intact with no rips, tears, rubber degradation, &amp;amp;nbsp;and bolted up to proper torque. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*measure flange angles on both trans and front diff. they should be &amp;amp;nbsp;equal and probably best if 4 degrees from vertical or less. I *believe* the stock set up is having flange faces angled down at 4 degrees or less. Don't shim to have flanges perfectly vertical. The joints should have some angle on them to allow the needle bearings to wear evenly.&amp;amp;nbsp; &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*adjust front diff (or trans if needed&lt;/del&gt;) &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;with shim(s). For example, add shims to front diff. front mount to make input flange face down more. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*measure lateral alignment and adjust transmission and or front diff to align, centre on centre. &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*recheck flange angles&lt;/del&gt;.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Install &lt;/del&gt;propeller shaft and &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;test drive. If vibrations still persist, try loosening the &lt;/del&gt;front differential &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;mounting bolts a bit and drive for a few miles&lt;/del&gt;. &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;This may allow &lt;/del&gt;the &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;front differential to align itself to &lt;/del&gt;shaft. &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Tighten bolts back up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;== Prerequisites ==&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Assumption is made that the &lt;/ins&gt;propeller shaft &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;is not bent or otherwise damaged, and that rear transmission &lt;/ins&gt;and front differential &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;are in good working order&lt;/ins&gt;. &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Also this procedure is geared towards &lt;/ins&gt;the &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;stock VW propeller &lt;/ins&gt;shaft&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;, not after market shafts with slip joints, double cardan joints, etc&lt;/ins&gt;.  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;links&lt;/del&gt;:  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;== Procedures ==&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Make sure the u-joints have no play at all. Try and move the bearing cups and yokes. The yokes should be snug and smooth moving. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*If u-joints need replacing due to worn or frozen bearings, then Precision brand, part #813 will fit if grease nipple port is plugged with short bolt. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Make sure the internal bushings at guibo end (rubber damper end) are not worn out. U-joint yoke should be a tight fit with no slop (and shaft greased). If bushings and or yoke shaft worn, then take to machinist to fit new bronze (or Oilite) bushings and have yoke shaft machined to remove wear and to fit. There are two bushings, one at the end and one deeper inside driveshaft. They can be removed with a 1&amp;quot; tap. In the UK there is a [http&lt;/ins&gt;:&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;//wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement  replacement poly bushing] available for the end bushing. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Guibo should be intact with no rips, tears, rubber degradation, and bolted to proper torque. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Measure flange angles on both trans and front diff; they should be equal and probably best if 4 degrees from vertical or less. I *believe* the stock set up is having flange faces angled down at 4 degrees or less. Don't shim to have flanges perfectly vertical. The joints should have some angle on them to allow the needle bearings to wear evenly. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Adjust front diff (or trans if needed) with shim(s). For example, add shims to front diff. front mount to make input flange face down more. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Measure lateral alignment and adjust transmission and or front diff to align, centre on centre. &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;*Recheck flange angles.&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;[http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman&lt;/del&gt;.&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;blogspot&lt;/del&gt;.&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;com/ Herman's Blog] with propshaft info &lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Install propeller shaft and test drive&lt;/ins&gt;. &lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;If vibrations persist, try loosening the front differential mounting bolts a bit and drive for a few miles. This may allow the front differential to align itself to shaft. Tighten bolts back up&lt;/ins&gt;.  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;[http://shufti.wordpress.com/ Another blog]&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/del&gt;with alignment and propshaft info (author's blog)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;== References ==&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;* [http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/ Herman's Blog] with propshaft info &lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;* &lt;/ins&gt;[http://shufti.wordpress.com/ Another blog] with alignment and propshaft info (author's blog)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;* [http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement Link] to polybushing&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;−&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;[&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;http&lt;/del&gt;:&lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;//wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement Link&lt;/del&gt;] &lt;del class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;to polybushing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;[&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;[Category&lt;/ins&gt;:&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;Syncro]]&lt;/ins&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td colspan=&quot;2&quot;&gt; &lt;/td&gt;&lt;td class='diff-marker'&gt;+&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;color: #222; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ins class=&quot;diffchange diffchange-inline&quot;&gt;[[Category:Maintenance]&lt;/ins&gt;]&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;

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&lt;/table&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MariusStrom</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Prop_shaft_alignment&amp;diff=237&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>Albell: syncro propeller shaft alignment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Prop_shaft_alignment&amp;diff=237&amp;oldid=prev"/>
		<updated>2010-05-28T17:39:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;syncro propeller shaft alignment&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;This is an outline of procedure to reduce or eliminate syncro propeller shaft (drive shaft) vibrations. Often these vibrations occur at road speeds of around 50-70 kph. Assumption made that propeller shaft not bent or otherwise damaged, and that rear transmission and front differential are in good working order. Also this procedure is geared towards the stock VW propeller shaft, not after market shafts with slip joints and double cardan joints etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*first make sure the u joints have no play at all. Try and move the bearing cups and yokes. They yokes should be snug and smooth moving. &lt;br /&gt;
*if U joints need replacing due to worn or frozen bearings, then Precision brand, part #813 will fit if grease nipple port is plugged with short bolt. &lt;br /&gt;
*make sure the internal bushings at guibo end (rubber damper end) are not worn out. U-joint yoke should be a tight fit with no slop (and shaft&amp;amp;nbsp;greased). If bushings and or yoke shaft worn then take to machinist to fit new bronze (or Oilite) bushings and have yoke shaft machined to remove wear and to fit. Or machine it yourself if you can. There are two bushings, one at the end and one deeper inside driveshaft. They can be removed with a 1&amp;quot; tap. In the UK there is a replacement poly bushing available for the end bushing. &lt;br /&gt;
*guibo should be intact with no rips, tears, rubber degradation, &amp;amp;nbsp;and bolted up to proper torque. &lt;br /&gt;
*measure flange angles on both trans and front diff. they should be &amp;amp;nbsp;equal and probably best if 4 degrees from vertical or less. I *believe* the stock set up is having flange faces angled down at 4 degrees or less. Don't shim to have flanges perfectly vertical. The joints should have some angle on them to allow the needle bearings to wear evenly.&amp;amp;nbsp; &lt;br /&gt;
*adjust front diff (or trans if needed) with shim(s). For example, add shims to front diff. front mount to make input flange face down more. &lt;br /&gt;
*measure lateral alignment and adjust transmission and or front diff to align, centre on centre. &lt;br /&gt;
*recheck flange angles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Install propeller shaft and test drive. If vibrations still persist, try loosening the front differential mounting bolts a bit and drive for a few miles. This may allow the front differential to align itself to shaft. Tighten bolts back up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
links: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/ Herman's Blog] with propshaft info &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://shufti.wordpress.com/ Another blog]&amp;amp;nbsp;with alignment and propshaft info (author's blog)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement Link] to polybushing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Albell</name></author>
		
	</entry>
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