Brake lines replacement - Revision history

WikiSysop at 11:20, 2 June 2010

2010-06-02T11:20:16Z

Msouth: added "remove and replace" category

2010-06-01T14:47:52Z

added "remove and replace" category

Cotc03: played with alignement

2010-06-01T13:59:03Z

played with alignement

Cotc03: added the diagram

2010-06-01T13:56:38Z

added the diagram

Cotc03: first version of the brake lines replacement article.

2010-06-01T13:53:46Z

first version of the brake lines replacement article.

New page

= Brake Lines Replacement on a 1988 VW Vanagon GL =

My wife and I just bought a 1988 Vanagon. During CAA inspection the front left and right rear brake lines burst causing the van to fail inspection. We bought it anyway and negotiated the price down quite a bit from what the seller was asking.

I replaced every single metal and flexible line in the van. It took me an entire day 8 to 10 hours plus bleeding and adjusting time. But it was worth it. I drove the van on Sunday and it works great!

== What you Need ==

Parts required to do the entire van from front to back. I found it all at Napa (i bought mine in Shawinigan QC. If I can find it in Shawinigan you can find this stuff anywhere! 

 

#Brake fluid (I bought dot4) 2 pints 
#Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending! a. 60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors) b. 40 inches (x1) about 7$ c. 30 inches (x2) about 7$ d. 20 inches (x2) about 6$ e. 12 inches (x2) at about 5$ f. 1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.   
#Flexible lines (2 short ones in the rear 2 longer ones in the front) a. These can be ordered through your car parts dealer and are from 15 to 35$ each 
#8,10,11,12,14mm box wrenches 
#2 good pairs of vice grips 
#A Turkey baster (to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder 
#A hammer (always need a hammer with a VW) 
#A 10 and 11 mm rusty bolt extractor looks like a double sided box wrench with two round ratchet ends (my old brake line connectors were really stuck these tools saved my life!) I got mine at Canadian Tire. 
#A pair of small bolt cutters (to cut your rusty brake lines) 
#A beer bottle to catch brake fluid. You can start with a full one and empty it, but don’t drink the brake fluid...it tastes horrible and it is poison! 
#Flashlight or Mechanics lamp 
#Phillips and flat head screwdrivers 
#Rubber mechanics gloves (brake fluid is bad for your skin and rusty brake lines mess up your knuckles!) 

 

Brake Lines Diagram

INSERT HERE WHEN I FOUND OUT HOW...

== Start in the Front ==

Once I got all of my parts and tools (and my full beer bottle) together I found a level driveway and raised the front end of the van on some sturdy ramps (it is nice to have room to work) I then removed the spare tire and set it to the side.

Empty your beer bottle. Climb into the driver seat with your turkey baster, 11mm box wrench, two 5 foot steel brake lines and empty beer bottle. Remove the shroud around the instrument cluster Pull up from the rear. Find you master cylinder and empty it with your baster and bottle. If your lines are as bad as mine you won’t have to worry....gravity will have emptied the reservoir. Remove the instrument panel cluster (4 Phillips screws) and set it to the side. Use the 11mm wrench to remove the two steel brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the vent shroud from in front of the transmission gear box (auto or standard they are both the same) just pull on it give it a good yank but don’t break it! You will need to do this to have access to where the lines go through the floor.

Get under the van and look up towards the front where the spare tire goes. You will find the two lines coming through the floor. Cut one of them with your bolt cutters (I started with the front and it was on the driver’s side in my van).

Get back into the cab and remove the cut line and replace it with a 5 foot section. Bend the line to follow the path up to the master cylinder and connect it to the rear hole on the driver’s side of the master cylinder.

Be careful when bending the lines you don’t want to kink or crimp them!

Now do the other one (for the rear) by repeating the same steps mentioned above (cut below, remove, replace). 

Go back under the front of the Van. Look for the steering box. You will find a T brake line connection there (follow your cut line). Cut all of the lines as close to the connector as possible at the T and use your super Matercraft extractor to remove the old connectors. Try to reuse the “ T “if you can...it may look bad on the outside but I’ll bet that it is still good. Besides they are hard to find and nothing beats the originals!

Connect the front line (driver’s side) to the “T” run a 20” line to the driver’s side and a 30” section to the passenger side. Cut and remove the old lines (close to the connectors again!)

Replace the Flexible hosing by removing the old ones with a 14mm box wrench. Keep the clips that were used to hold the hoses in place! Put in the new flexible hoses connected to the callipers and the new lines that you brought from the front “T.

Front is done! 

== Finishing with the Rear ==

The second line that you ran from the master cylinder runs to the rear but it goes through a booster first. You will find it by following the cut lines that go towards the passenger side. It is right beside the spare wheel well and just in front of the front beam. Cut the connectors from this booster taking note of which end was the in and which was the out. Use the rusty bolt extractor to get the old connectors out. Connect your 5 foot line that you ran from the master cylinder to the in and take another 5 foot section and run it towards the rear (I ran mine in the valley in the gas tank.)

It’s time for a break and to raise the rear of your van as we did the front. Once again it is much better having room to move around when working on the van.

Use your union connection that you bought and put it on the end of the 5 foot section you ran over the gas tank. We now need to look for the “T” in the rear. I found mine just above the front of the transmission on the passenger side and man was it hard to get at! It took time (a lot) to get the “T” unbolted from the frame. Once I got it, I cut the lines and used the extractor to remove the old rusted connectors.

Pass a 40” section of steel line from the rear union you placed on the 5 foot section to your “T”. I moved mine to a slightly better spot so that I could work on it again if I needed to. Remove the old lines to the flexible lines and replace the flex lines with the new ones. Pass a 12 to 20” line to the flexible hose on the passenger side and a 30” section to the flexible hose on the driver’s side.

Keep the retaining clips and reuse them if you can. If not you can always find some way of fixing the lines to the frame.

There are 2 small sections (12” or so) of steel lines you still need to replace on the rear suspension. But by now I am sure you can figure it out.

That’s it for the rear!

 

== Bleed the Brake Lines ==

Fill up the Master Cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes. You can Google “bleed your brakes” if you don’t know how. Start with the rear passenger and then rear driver. You can then do front passenger then driver. You may need to bleed the lines a couple times (at least I did).

 

== Test the brakes ==

Check for leaks. Make sure your emergency brake works (just in case). Test your system first by having the emergency brake all the way and jamming your feet on the break pedeal. If there is no leak, go for a test drive on a safe road.

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 == What you Need  ==
-Parts required to do the entire van from front to back. I found it all at Napa (i bought mine in Shawinigan QC. If I can find it in Shawinigan you can find this stuff anywhere!<br>
+Parts required to do the entire van from front to back. I found it all at Napa (i bought mine in Shawinigan QC. If I can find it in Shawinigan you can find this stuff anywhere!
-<br>
+*Brake fluid (I bought dot4) 2 pints
+*Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending!
-#Brake fluid (I bought dot4) 2 pints<br>
+**60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors)
-#Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending!<br>a. 60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors)<br>b. 40 inches (x1) about 7$<br>c. 30 inches (x2) about 7$<br>d. 20 inches (x2) about 6$<br>e. 12 inches (x2) at about 5$<br>f. 1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.<span id="1275399415789E" style="display: none;">&nbsp;</span><span id="1275399452493E" style="display: none;">&nbsp;</span><br>
+**40 inches (x1) about 7$
-#Flexible lines (2 short ones in the rear 2 longer ones in the front)<br>a. These can be ordered through your car parts dealer and are from 15 to 35$ each<br>
+**30 inches (x2) about 7$
-#8,10,11,12,14mm box wrenches<br>
+**20 inches (x2) about 6$
-#2 good pairs of vice grips<br>
+**12 inches (x2) at about 5$
-#A Turkey baster (to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder<br>
+**1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.
-#A hammer (always need a hammer with a VW)<br>
+*Flexible lines (2 short ones in the rear 2 longer ones in the front)
-#A 10 and 11 mm rusty bolt extractor looks like a double sided box wrench with two round ratchet ends (my old brake line connectors were really stuck these tools saved my life!) I got mine at Canadian Tire.<br>
+**sThese can be ordered through your car parts dealer and are $15-35 each
-#A pair of small bolt cutters (to cut your rusty brake lines)<br>
+*8,10,11,12,14mm box wrenches
-#A beer bottle to catch brake fluid. You can start with a full one and empty it, but don’t drink the brake fluid...it tastes horrible and it is poison!<br>
+*2 good pairs of vice grips
-#Flashlight or Mechanics lamp<br>
+*A Turkey baster (to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder
-#Phillips and flat head screwdrivers<br>
+*A hammer (always need a hammer with a VW)
-#Rubber mechanics gloves (brake fluid is bad for your skin and rusty brake lines mess up your knuckles!)<br>
+*A 10 and 11 mm rusty bolt extractor looks like a double sided box wrench with two round ratchet ends (my old brake line connectors were really stuck these tools saved my life!) I got mine at Canadian Tire.
+*A pair of small bolt cutters (to cut your rusty brake lines)
-<br>
+*A beer bottle to catch brake fluid. You can start with a full one and empty it, but don't drink the brake fluid...it tastes horrible and it is poison!
 Brake Lines Diagram
-[[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|frame|center]]<br>
+[[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|frame|center]]
 == Start in the Front  ==
@@ Line 35: / Line 38: @@
 Once I got all of my parts and tools (and my full beer bottle) together I found a level driveway and raised the front end of the van on some sturdy ramps (it is nice to have room to work) I then removed the spare tire and set it to the side.
-Empty your beer bottle. Climb into the driver seat with your turkey baster, 11mm box wrench, two 5 foot steel brake lines and empty beer bottle. Remove the shroud around the instrument cluster Pull up from the rear. Find you master cylinder and empty it with your baster and bottle. If your lines are as bad as mine you won’t have to worry....gravity will have emptied the reservoir. Remove the instrument panel cluster (4 Phillips screws) and set it to the side. Use the 11mm wrench to remove the two steel brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the vent shroud from in front of the transmission gear box (auto or standard they are both the same) just pull on it give it a good yank but don’t break it! You will need to do this to have access to where the lines go through the floor.
+Empty your beer bottle. Climb into the driver seat with your turkey baster, 11mm box wrench, two 5 foot steel brake lines and empty beer bottle. Remove the shroud around the instrument cluster Pull up from the rear. Find you master cylinder and empty it with your baster and bottle. If your lines are as bad as mine you won't have to worry....gravity will have emptied the reservoir. Remove the instrument panel cluster (4 Phillips screws) and set it to the side. Use the 11mm wrench to remove the two steel brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the vent shroud from in front of the transmission gear box (auto or standard they are both the same) just pull on it give it a good yank but don't break it! You will need to do this to have access to where the lines go through the floor.
-Get under the van and look up towards the front where the spare tire goes. You will find the two lines coming through the floor. Cut one of them with your bolt cutters (I started with the front and it was on the driver’s side in my van).
+Get under the van and look up towards the front where the spare tire goes. You will find the two lines coming through the floor. Cut one of them with your bolt cutters (I started with the front and it was on the driver's side in my van).
-Get back into the cab and remove the cut line and replace it with a 5 foot section. Bend the line to follow the path up to the master cylinder and connect it to the rear hole on the driver’s side of the master cylinder.
+Get back into the cab and remove the cut line and replace it with a 5 foot section. Bend the line to follow the path up to the master cylinder and connect it to the rear hole on the driver's side of the master cylinder.
-Be careful when bending the lines you don’t want to kink or crimp them!
+Be careful when bending the lines you don't want to kink or crimp them!
-Now do the other one (for the rear) by repeating the same steps mentioned above (cut below, remove, replace). <br>
+Now do the other one (for the rear) by repeating the same steps mentioned above (cut below, remove, replace).
-Go back under the front of the Van. Look for the steering box. You will find a T brake line connection there (follow your cut line). Cut all of the lines as close to the connector as possible at the T and use your super Matercraft extractor to remove the old connectors. Try to reuse the “ T “if you can...it may look bad on the outside but I’ll bet that it is still good. Besides they are hard to find and nothing beats the originals!
+Go back under the front of the Van. Look for the steering box. You will find a T brake line connection there (follow your cut line). Cut all of the lines as close to the connector as possible at the T and use your super Matercraft extractor to remove the old connectors. Try to reuse the "T" if you can...it may look bad on the outside but I'll bet that it is still good. Besides they are hard to find and nothing beats the originals!
-Connect the front line (driver’s side) to the “T” run a 20” line to the driver’s side and a 30” section to the passenger side. Cut and remove the old lines (close to the connectors again!)
+Connect the front line (driver's side) to the "T" run a 20-inch line to the driver's side and a 30-inch section to the passenger side. Cut and remove the old lines (close to the connectors again!)
-Replace the Flexible hosing by removing the old ones with a 14mm box wrench. Keep the clips that were used to hold the hoses in place! Put in the new flexible hoses connected to the callipers and the new lines that you brought from the front “T.
+Replace the Flexible hosing by removing the old ones with a 14mm box wrench. Keep the clips that were used to hold the hoses in place! Put in the new flexible hoses connected to the callipers and the new lines that you brought from the front "T."
-Front is done!<br>
+Front is done!
-== <br>Finishing with the Rear  ==
+== Finishing with the Rear  ==
 The second line that you ran from the master cylinder runs to the rear but it goes through a booster first. You will find it by following the cut lines that go towards the passenger side. It is right beside the spare wheel well and just in front of the front beam. Cut the connectors from this booster taking note of which end was the in and which was the out. Use the rusty bolt extractor to get the old connectors out. Connect your 5 foot line that you ran from the master cylinder to the in and take another 5 foot section and run it towards the rear (I ran mine in the valley in the gas tank.)
-It’s time for a break and to raise the rear of your van as we did the front. Once again it is much better having room to move around when working on the van.
+It's time for a break and to raise the rear of your van as we did the front. Once again it is much better having room to move around when working on the van.
-Use your union connection that you bought and put it on the end of the 5 foot section you ran over the gas tank. We now need to look for the “T” in the rear. I found mine just above the front of the transmission on the passenger side and man was it hard to get at! It took time (a lot) to get the “T” unbolted from the frame. Once I got it, I cut the lines and used the extractor to remove the old rusted connectors.
+Use your union connection that you bought and put it on the end of the 5 foot section you ran over the gas tank. We now need to look for the "T" in the rear. I found mine just above the front of the transmission on the passenger side and man was it hard to get at! It took time (a lot) to get the "T" unbolted from the frame. Once I got it, I cut the lines and used the extractor to remove the old rusted connectors.
-Pass a 40” section of steel line from the rear union you placed on the 5 foot section to your “T”. I moved mine to a slightly better spot so that I could work on it again if I needed to. Remove the old lines to the flexible lines and replace the flex lines with the new ones. Pass a 12 to 20” line to the flexible hose on the passenger side and a 30” section to the flexible hose on the driver’s side.
+Pass a 40-inch section of steel line from the rear union you placed on the 5 foot section to your "T". I moved mine to a slightly better spot so that I could work on it again if I needed to. Remove the old lines to the flexible lines and replace the flex lines with the new ones. Pass a 12- to 20-inch line to the flexible hose on the passenger side and a 30-inch section to the flexible hose on the driver's side.
 Keep the retaining clips and reuse them if you can. If not you can always find some way of fixing the lines to the frame.
-There are 2 small sections (12” or so) of steel lines you still need to replace on the rear suspension. But by now I am sure you can figure it out.
+There are 2 small sections (12 inches or so) of steel lines you still need to replace on the rear suspension. But by now I am sure you can figure it out.
-== Bleed the Brake Lines<br>  ==
+That's it for the rear!
-Fill up the Master Cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes. You can Google “bleed your brakes” if you don’t know how. Start with the rear passenger and then rear driver. You can then do front passenger then driver. You may need to bleed the lines a couple times (at least I did).
+== Bleed the Brake Lines  ==
-<br>
+Fill up the Master Cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes. You can Google "bleed your brakes" if you don't know how. Start with the rear passenger and then rear driver. You can then do front passenger then driver. You may need to bleed the lines a couple times (at least I did).
 == Test the brakes  ==
-Check for leaks. Make sure your emergency brake works (just in case). Test your system first by having the emergency brake all the way and jamming your feet on the break pedeal. If there is no leak, go for a test drive on a safe road.<br>
+Check for leaks. Make sure your emergency brake works (just in case). Test your system first by having the emergency brake all the way and jamming your feet on the break pedeal. If there is no leak, go for a test drive on a safe road.
 [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]]

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 Brake Lines Diagram
 [[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|frame|center]]<br>
 == Start in the Front  ==
@@ Line 79: / Line 79: @@
 == Test the brakes  ==
 Check for leaks. Make sure your emergency brake works (just in case). Test your system first by having the emergency brake all the way and jamming your feet on the break pedeal. If there is no leak, go for a test drive on a safe road.<br>

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 Brake Lines Diagram
-[[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|left|Brake Lines Diagram]]<br>
+[[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|frame|center]]<br>
 == Start in the Front  ==

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 #Brake fluid (I bought dot4) 2 pints<br>
-#Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending!<br>a. 60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors)<br>b. 40 inches (x1) about 7$<br>c. 30 inches (x2) about 7$<br>d. 20 inches (x2) about 6$<br>e. 12 inches (x2) at about 5$<br>f. 1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.<span style="display: none;" id="1275399415789E">&nbsp;</span><span style="display: none;" id="1275399452493E">&nbsp;</span><br>
+#Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending!<br>a. 60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors)<br>b. 40 inches (x1) about 7$<br>c. 30 inches (x2) about 7$<br>d. 20 inches (x2) about 6$<br>e. 12 inches (x2) at about 5$<br>f. 1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.<span id="1275399415789E" style="display: none;">&nbsp;</span><span id="1275399452493E" style="display: none;">&nbsp;</span><br>
 #Flexible lines (2 short ones in the rear 2 longer ones in the front)<br>a. These can be ordered through your car parts dealer and are from 15 to 35$ each<br>
 #8,10,11,12,14mm box wrenches<br>
@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 <br>
 Brake Lines Diagram
 == Start in the Front  ==