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	<id>https://t3wiki.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Msouth</id>
	<title>Vanagon Wiki - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://t3wiki.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Msouth"/>
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	<updated>2026-05-18T07:28:10Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.34.2</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_refrigerator&amp;diff=253</id>
		<title>Remove refrigerator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_refrigerator&amp;diff=253"/>
		<updated>2010-06-01T14:49:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are 5 screws on the outside flue cover &amp;amp;amp; exhaust holder = 2 minutes max. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Remove fridge door = 5 seconds. There are 5 (capped) screws that hold the fridge face plate on (what the fridge door hangs on) 30 seconds each ( = 2.5 minutes max), and the face plate just swings out (pull on right side) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; There are 3 screws, 2 from under the sink that screw into the side of the fridge and one from the cabinet that holds the table leg, again about 2 minutes max. Now the fridge is loose. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Disconnect 2 wire sets from under the sink and the 110 volt plug = 1 minute. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Now I cheat as I have a flex hose from the copper propane tube (under the sink) to the back of the fridge, so I just unscrew 2 clamps (under the sink) and slip the hose off from the propane feeder line and the fridge slips out. (this step takes longer if one has to disconnect the propane from the back of the fridge, maybe 5 minutes or so for a contortionist) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; I do have to bend down the exhaust to clear the top of the cabinet. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; I do use a drill with a screwdriver end to unscrew things, but NOT to screw things in - that I do by hand. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; It takes a bit longer to get things back in, but not much longer. Trouble is to line things up for the screws. Malcolm &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Original: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0310A&amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;P=R15793] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Westfalia]] [[Category:Refrigerator]][[Category:Remove_and_Replace]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Remove_and_Replace&amp;diff=252</id>
		<title>Category:Remove and Replace</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Remove_and_Replace&amp;diff=252"/>
		<updated>2010-06-01T14:48:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with '&amp;amp;nbsp;This is for any article that details the steps in removing and replacing anything on the van.'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;This is for any article that details the steps in removing and replacing anything on the van.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Brake_lines_replacement&amp;diff=251</id>
		<title>Brake lines replacement</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Brake_lines_replacement&amp;diff=251"/>
		<updated>2010-06-01T14:47:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: added &amp;quot;remove and replace&amp;quot; category&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Brake Lines Replacement on a 1988 VW Vanagon GL  =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My wife and I just bought a 1988 Vanagon. During CAA inspection the front left and right rear brake lines burst causing the van to fail inspection. We bought it anyway and negotiated the price down quite a bit from what the seller was asking. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I replaced every single metal and flexible line in the van. It took me an entire day 8 to 10 hours plus bleeding and adjusting time. But it was worth it. I drove the van on Sunday and it works great! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What you Need  ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts required to do the entire van from front to back. I found it all at Napa (i bought mine in Shawinigan QC. If I can find it in Shawinigan you can find this stuff anywhere!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Brake fluid (I bought dot4) 2 pints&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#Steel Brake lines 10mm bubble flair connector with a diameter of 3/16 (4.75mm) See diagram...Buy some spare in case you kink the lines while bending!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;a. 60 inches (X3) about 10$ each (pre-flared with connectors)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;b. 40 inches (x1) about 7$&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;c. 30 inches (x2) about 7$&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;d. 20 inches (x2) about 6$&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;e. 12 inches (x2) at about 5$&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;f. 1 10mm bubble flair female to female union.&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;1275399415789E&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;display: none;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;1275399452493E&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;display: none;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#Flexible lines (2 short ones in the rear 2 longer ones in the front)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;a. These can be ordered through your car parts dealer and are from 15 to 35$ each&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#8,10,11,12,14mm box wrenches&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#2 good pairs of vice grips&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#A Turkey baster (to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#A hammer (always need a hammer with a VW)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#A 10 and 11 mm rusty bolt extractor looks like a double sided box wrench with two round ratchet ends (my old brake line connectors were really stuck these tools saved my life!) I got mine at Canadian Tire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#A pair of small bolt cutters (to cut your rusty brake lines)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#A beer bottle to catch brake fluid. You can start with a full one and empty it, but don’t drink the brake fluid...it tastes horrible and it is poison!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#Flashlight or Mechanics lamp&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#Phillips and flat head screwdrivers&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#Rubber mechanics gloves (brake fluid is bad for your skin and rusty brake lines mess up your knuckles!)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brake Lines Diagram &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrakeLinesDiagram.JPG|frame|center]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Start in the Front  ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once I got all of my parts and tools (and my full beer bottle) together I found a level driveway and raised the front end of the van on some sturdy ramps (it is nice to have room to work) I then removed the spare tire and set it to the side. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Empty your beer bottle. Climb into the driver seat with your turkey baster, 11mm box wrench, two 5 foot steel brake lines and empty beer bottle. Remove the shroud around the instrument cluster Pull up from the rear. Find you master cylinder and empty it with your baster and bottle. If your lines are as bad as mine you won’t have to worry....gravity will have emptied the reservoir. Remove the instrument panel cluster (4 Phillips screws) and set it to the side. Use the 11mm wrench to remove the two steel brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the vent shroud from in front of the transmission gear box (auto or standard they are both the same) just pull on it give it a good yank but don’t break it! You will need to do this to have access to where the lines go through the floor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Get under the van and look up towards the front where the spare tire goes. You will find the two lines coming through the floor. Cut one of them with your bolt cutters (I started with the front and it was on the driver’s side in my van). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Get back into the cab and remove the cut line and replace it with a 5 foot section. Bend the line to follow the path up to the master cylinder and connect it to the rear hole on the driver’s side of the master cylinder. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be careful when bending the lines you don’t want to kink or crimp them! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now do the other one (for the rear) by repeating the same steps mentioned above (cut below, remove, replace). &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Go back under the front of the Van. Look for the steering box. You will find a T brake line connection there (follow your cut line). Cut all of the lines as close to the connector as possible at the T and use your super Matercraft extractor to remove the old connectors. Try to reuse the “ T “if you can...it may look bad on the outside but I’ll bet that it is still good. Besides they are hard to find and nothing beats the originals! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the front line (driver’s side) to the “T” run a 20” line to the driver’s side and a 30” section to the passenger side. Cut and remove the old lines (close to the connectors again!) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replace the Flexible hosing by removing the old ones with a 14mm box wrench. Keep the clips that were used to hold the hoses in place! Put in the new flexible hoses connected to the callipers and the new lines that you brought from the front “T. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front is done!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Finishing with the Rear  ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The second line that you ran from the master cylinder runs to the rear but it goes through a booster first. You will find it by following the cut lines that go towards the passenger side. It is right beside the spare wheel well and just in front of the front beam. Cut the connectors from this booster taking note of which end was the in and which was the out. Use the rusty bolt extractor to get the old connectors out. Connect your 5 foot line that you ran from the master cylinder to the in and take another 5 foot section and run it towards the rear (I ran mine in the valley in the gas tank.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It’s time for a break and to raise the rear of your van as we did the front. Once again it is much better having room to move around when working on the van. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use your union connection that you bought and put it on the end of the 5 foot section you ran over the gas tank. We now need to look for the “T” in the rear. I found mine just above the front of the transmission on the passenger side and man was it hard to get at! It took time (a lot) to get the “T” unbolted from the frame. Once I got it, I cut the lines and used the extractor to remove the old rusted connectors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pass a 40” section of steel line from the rear union you placed on the 5 foot section to your “T”. I moved mine to a slightly better spot so that I could work on it again if I needed to. Remove the old lines to the flexible lines and replace the flex lines with the new ones. Pass a 12 to 20” line to the flexible hose on the passenger side and a 30” section to the flexible hose on the driver’s side. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the retaining clips and reuse them if you can. If not you can always find some way of fixing the lines to the frame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 small sections (12” or so) of steel lines you still need to replace on the rear suspension. But by now I am sure you can figure it out. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That’s it for the rear! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bleed the Brake Lines&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fill up the Master Cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes. You can Google “bleed your brakes” if you don’t know how. Start with the rear passenger and then rear driver. You can then do front passenger then driver. You may need to bleed the lines a couple times (at least I did). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Test the brakes  ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for leaks. Make sure your emergency brake works (just in case). Test your system first by having the emergency brake all the way and jamming your feet on the break pedeal. If there is no leak, go for a test drive on a safe road.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Remove_and_Replace]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Maintenance&amp;diff=250</id>
		<title>Category:Maintenance</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Maintenance&amp;diff=250"/>
		<updated>2010-06-01T14:45:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with 'This category is for recommended procedures, how-tos, schedules, etc for planned maintenance.'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This category is for recommended procedures, how-tos, schedules, etc for planned maintenance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=242</id>
		<title>Headlight Relay Install</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=242"/>
		<updated>2010-05-31T13:57:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: minor formatting&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;1980 -1985 Vanagons &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts Needed:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - double terminal end extender&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*16&amp;quot; - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*24&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Installation Procedure for 1980 - 1985 Vanagons &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed.  Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits.  Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below. &lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below. &lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below. &lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below. &lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below. &lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights. Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse. Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8&amp;quot; red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal. Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, take two 12&amp;quot; 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends. Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket. While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector. If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out. Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block. This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and low beam headlamp fuses, #3 &amp;amp;amp; #4 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86. Take the 8&amp;quot; yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 &amp;amp;amp; #6 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86. Take the 8&amp;quot; white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, push the relays into the relay sockets. Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power&amp;amp;nbsp;! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out. If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps. Use the next size higher amperage fuse. Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=241</id>
		<title>Headlight Relay Install</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=241"/>
		<updated>2010-05-31T13:56:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: wikified lists, unindented&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;1980 -1985 Vanagons &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 - double terminal end extender &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 16&amp;quot; - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 24&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installation Procedure for 1980 - 1985 Vanagons &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
     New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed.  Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits.  Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
*12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
*14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket.  On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights.   Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse.  Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8&amp;quot; red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal.   Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*NOTE* - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Next, take two 12&amp;quot; 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends.  Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket.  While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector.  If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out.  Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block.  This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights.  This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and  low beam headlamp fuses, #3 &amp;amp;amp; #4 fuses, are removed.  Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86.  Take the  8&amp;quot; yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87.  Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights.  This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 &amp;amp;amp; #6 fuses, are removed.   Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86.  Take the  8&amp;quot; white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87.  Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Now, push the relays into the relay sockets.  Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power&amp;amp;nbsp;!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out.  If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps.  Use the next size higher amperage fuse.  Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=240</id>
		<title>Headlight Relay Install</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=240"/>
		<updated>2010-05-31T13:52:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: re-did without rich editor on&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;1980 ~1985 Vanagons&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
8 -  spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
1 - double terminal end extender&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
16&amp;quot; - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
24&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installation Procedure for 1980 ~ 1985 Vanagons&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed.  Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits.  Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket.  On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights.   Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse.  Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8&amp;quot; red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal.   Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     *NOTE* - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     Next, take two 12&amp;quot; 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends.  Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket.  While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector.  If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out.  Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block.  This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights.  This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and  low beam headlamp fuses, #3 &amp;amp; #4 fuses, are removed.  Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86.  Take the  8&amp;quot; yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87.  Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
     Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights.  This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 &amp;amp; #6 fuses, are removed.   Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86.  Take the  8&amp;quot; white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87.  Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     Now, push the relays into the relay sockets.  Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
     Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power !&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
    If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out.  If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps.  Use the next size higher amperage fuse.  Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=239</id>
		<title>Headlight Relay Install</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Install&amp;diff=239"/>
		<updated>2010-05-31T13:51:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: pasting in text from Sudhir Desai&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;1980 ~1985 Vanagons&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - double terminal end extender&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;16&amp;quot; - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;24&amp;quot; - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installation Procedure for 1980 ~ 1985 Vanagons&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed. Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits. Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; 14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights. Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse. Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8&amp;quot; red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal. Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; *NOTE* - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Next, take two 12&amp;quot; 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends. Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket. While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector. If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out. Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block. This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and low beam headlamp fuses, #3 &amp;amp;amp; #4 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86. Take the 8&amp;quot; yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 &amp;amp;amp; #6 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86. Take the 8&amp;quot; white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Now, push the relays into the relay sockets. Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power !&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out. If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps. Use the next size higher amperage fuse. Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=202</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=202"/>
		<updated>2010-05-11T04:01:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Remove heater knobs and faceplate */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
I looked at several references when I did this.  One of the best is [http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm BenT's] photo-with-caption version.  For a very concise textual list (might be most useful to someone who has done it but just wants a refresher), you can see the vanagonaut [http://www.vanagonauts.com/%5b70.5-%5dInstrument-Panel---Dashboard-(T-J-Hannink)117.htm btdt] on it.&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because, when I did it, it was really difficult on three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers with one hand while pulling with the other hand to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out, they hold the lever assembly to the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you look down through the hole that the instrument cluster left, up near the top on the passenger side you'll see a third screw that also holds the lever assembly.  It needs to come out, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull heater channels===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ducts that channel the heat/fresh air/whatever slide off easily, but probably a little more easily if you do it before you start trying to pull the dash at the end.  Just use the vents as a guide, reach behind the vent and pull the duct thing off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pull out the dash ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found that it was kind of hung on the brackets that the anti-theft bolt things attached to.  I got the bottom of it wiggled off of those first and then it wasn't too terrible after that.  I had to pull pretty hard but I couldn't see what was causing the resistance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_fridge&amp;diff=195</id>
		<title>Remove fridge</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_fridge&amp;diff=195"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T14:05:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: redirecting to remove_refrigerator&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[Remove_refrigerator]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_refrigerator&amp;diff=194</id>
		<title>Remove refrigerator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_refrigerator&amp;diff=194"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T14:05:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: moving from remove_fridge which will now redirect here&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are 5 screws on the outside flue cover &amp;amp; exhaust&lt;br /&gt;
holder = 2 minutes max.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove fridge door = 5 seconds.  There are 5 (capped)&lt;br /&gt;
screws that hold the fridge face plate on (what the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge door hangs on) 30 seconds each ( = 2.5 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
max), and the face plate just swings out (pull on&lt;br /&gt;
right side)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 3 screws, 2 from under the sink that screw&lt;br /&gt;
into the side of the fridge and one from the cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
that holds the table leg, again about 2 minutes max.&lt;br /&gt;
Now the fridge is loose.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect 2 wire sets from under the sink and the 110&lt;br /&gt;
volt plug = 1 minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now I cheat as I have a flex hose from the copper&lt;br /&gt;
propane tube (under the sink) to the back of the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge, so I just unscrew 2 clamps (under the sink)&lt;br /&gt;
and slip the hose off from the propane feeder line and&lt;br /&gt;
the fridge slips out.  (this step takes longer if one&lt;br /&gt;
has to disconnect the propane from the back of the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge, maybe 5 minutes or so for a contortionist)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do have to bend down the exhaust to clear the top of&lt;br /&gt;
the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do use a drill with a screwdriver end to unscrew&lt;br /&gt;
things, but NOT to screw things in - that I do by&lt;br /&gt;
hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It takes a bit longer to get things back in, but not&lt;br /&gt;
much longer.  Trouble is to line things up for the&lt;br /&gt;
screws.  Malcolm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Original: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0310A&amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;P=R15793]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Westfalia]][[Category:Refrigerator]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Refrigerator&amp;diff=193</id>
		<title>Category:Refrigerator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Refrigerator&amp;diff=193"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T13:55:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with 'Category:Westfalia'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_fridge&amp;diff=192</id>
		<title>Remove fridge</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_fridge&amp;diff=192"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T13:55:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: refrigerator&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are 5 screws on the outside flue cover &amp;amp; exhaust&lt;br /&gt;
holder = 2 minutes max.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove fridge door = 5 seconds.  There are 5 (capped)&lt;br /&gt;
screws that hold the fridge face plate on (what the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge door hangs on) 30 seconds each ( = 2.5 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
max), and the face plate just swings out (pull on&lt;br /&gt;
right side)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 3 screws, 2 from under the sink that screw&lt;br /&gt;
into the side of the fridge and one from the cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
that holds the table leg, again about 2 minutes max.&lt;br /&gt;
Now the fridge is loose.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect 2 wire sets from under the sink and the 110&lt;br /&gt;
volt plug = 1 minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now I cheat as I have a flex hose from the copper&lt;br /&gt;
propane tube (under the sink) to the back of the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge, so I just unscrew 2 clamps (under the sink)&lt;br /&gt;
and slip the hose off from the propane feeder line and&lt;br /&gt;
the fridge slips out.  (this step takes longer if one&lt;br /&gt;
has to disconnect the propane from the back of the&lt;br /&gt;
fridge, maybe 5 minutes or so for a contortionist)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do have to bend down the exhaust to clear the top of&lt;br /&gt;
the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do use a drill with a screwdriver end to unscrew&lt;br /&gt;
things, but NOT to screw things in - that I do by&lt;br /&gt;
hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It takes a bit longer to get things back in, but not&lt;br /&gt;
much longer.  Trouble is to line things up for the&lt;br /&gt;
screws.  Malcolm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Original: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0310A&amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;P=R15793]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Westfalia]][[Category:Refrigerator]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Fix_floppy_mirror&amp;diff=191</id>
		<title>Fix floppy mirror</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Fix_floppy_mirror&amp;diff=191"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T12:38:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors&lt;br /&gt;
in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror&lt;br /&gt;
adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop&lt;br /&gt;
like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# remove mirrors.&lt;br /&gt;
# unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, &amp;amp; the spring.&lt;br /&gt;
# soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.&lt;br /&gt;
# use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).&lt;br /&gt;
# use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.&lt;br /&gt;
# IMPORTANT:  lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil)&lt;br /&gt;
# maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)&lt;br /&gt;
# re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As I said, I've done this will 3 sets in the past month and I offered a set to my mechanic FREE&lt;br /&gt;
just for the parts swap.  He nearly fell over in shock of a customer making this offer TO him.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can post photos if anyone desires.  I will also offer to sell a set re-vitalized of mirrors to&lt;br /&gt;
anyone who is willing to sent their Dumbo mirrors to me in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do believe it was Chris Turner who suggested this mirror 'fix'. If it was not Chris, then my&lt;br /&gt;
appologies to the correct author.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Malcolm (Halifax, NS)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Originally posted to the vanagon list: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;P=R4385]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Fix_floppy_mirror&amp;diff=190</id>
		<title>Fix floppy mirror</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Fix_floppy_mirror&amp;diff=190"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T12:38:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: number list&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors&lt;br /&gt;
in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror&lt;br /&gt;
adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop&lt;br /&gt;
like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# remove mirrors.&lt;br /&gt;
# unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, &amp;amp; the spring.&lt;br /&gt;
# soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.&lt;br /&gt;
# use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).&lt;br /&gt;
# use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.&lt;br /&gt;
# IMPORTANT:  lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil&lt;br /&gt;
# maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)&lt;br /&gt;
# re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As I said, I've done this will 3 sets in the past month and I offered a set to my mechanic FREE&lt;br /&gt;
just for the parts swap.  He nearly fell over in shock of a customer making this offer TO him.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can post photos if anyone desires.  I will also offer to sell a set re-vitalized of mirrors to&lt;br /&gt;
anyone who is willing to sent their Dumbo mirrors to me in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do believe it was Chris Turner who suggested this mirror 'fix'. If it was not Chris, then my&lt;br /&gt;
appologies to the correct author.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Malcolm (Halifax, NS)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Originally posted to the vanagon list: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;P=R4385]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Talk:Solicit_content&amp;diff=169</id>
		<title>Talk:Solicit content</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Talk:Solicit_content&amp;diff=169"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T03:26:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with 'Here is the motivation behind this text:  I think it might be good for us to have something of a standard about how we solicit input for the wiki from list members.  I am not try…'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Here is the motivation behind this text:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I think it might be good for us to have something of a standard about how we solicit input for the wiki from list members.  I am not trying to lay down rules or dictate anything, just making a suggestion, which I will have no power to enforce :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I think it's most fair to ask people off list.  If they want to refuse, they ought to be able to do that without feeling like we made them do it in front of the whole community.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I think we need to tell them what the licensing terms of contributions are--just asking someone &amp;quot;hey can I put this on the wiki?&amp;quot; is not really adequate disclosure, because what we're actually doing is asking them to license their content for unlimited reproduction and derivative works by any noncommercial entity.  It's not really fair (even if it were legal) not to tell them that in advance.  Technically if we just point them to the wiki and say &amp;quot;put your content there&amp;quot;, it would be them that made the contribution and their responsibility to read the licensing terms, but that's still not really a fair disclosure.  We should let them know what the deal is and let them make their decision with full understanding of the implications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Those are my thoughts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[User:Msouth|Msouth]] 03:26, 10 May 2010 (UTC)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solicit_content&amp;diff=168</id>
		<title>Solicit content</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solicit_content&amp;diff=168"/>
		<updated>2010-05-10T03:24:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with '==Suggested text for soliciting content for the wiki==  Would you have any objection to having [your description of that fix/your post about that conversion/etc] put on vanagonwi…'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Suggested text for soliciting content for the wiki==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Would you have any objection to having [your description of that fix/your post about that conversion/etc] put on vanagonwiki.net?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We get the hosting for free, but everything we put there must be made available under a particular creative commons license, which says people can re-post or make derivative works, but they can't use it commercially and they have to make their derived thing available under the same license.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pictures are very welcome there, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can post it, or help you post it, if you are unfamiliar with wikis, or just if you want me to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thanks,&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=165</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=165"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T05:16:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: links to other resources&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
I looked at several references when I did this.  One of the best is [http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm BenT's] photo-with-caption version.  For a very concise textual list (might be most useful to someone who has done it but just wants a refresher), you can see the vanagonaut [http://www.vanagonauts.com/%5b70.5-%5dInstrument-Panel---Dashboard-(T-J-Hannink)117.htm btdt] on it.&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out, they hold the lever assembly to the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you look down through the hole that the instrument cluster left, up near the top on the passenger side you'll see a third screw that also holds the lever assembly.  It needs to come out, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull heater channels===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ducts that channel the heat/fresh air/whatever slide off easily, but probably a little more easily if you do it before you start trying to pull the dash at the end.  Just use the vents as a guide, reach behind the vent and pull the duct thing off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pull out the dash ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found that it was kind of hung on the brackets that the anti-theft bolt things attached to.  I got the bottom of it wiggled off of those first and then it wasn't too terrible after that.  I had to pull pretty hard but I couldn't see what was causing the resistance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=164</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=164"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:33:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Front&lt;br /&gt;
:Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
;Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
;Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
;Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Front===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sliding Door===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Left/Closet Right/Over-Sink Left/Over-Sink Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Right/Closet Left===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back Left/Back Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Straps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:red&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;==&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=163</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=163"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:27:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Front&lt;br /&gt;
:Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
;Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
;Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
;Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
;Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
:Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Front===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sliding Door===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Left/Closet Right/Over-Sink Left/Over-Sink Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Right/Closet Left===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back Left/Back Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Straps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=162</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=162"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:24:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Construction */ made sections into actual headings&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front&lt;br /&gt;
    Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Front===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sliding Door===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Left/Closet Right/Over-Sink Left/Over-Sink Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Passenger Right/Closet Left===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back Left/Back Right===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Straps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=161</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=161"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:21:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Construction */ pulled leading spaced&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front&lt;br /&gt;
    Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Left:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Back Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Back Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Straps:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=160</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=160"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:18:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Hints on buying stuff */ removed leading spaced in list&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front&lt;br /&gt;
    Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
* (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Left:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Back Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Back Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Straps:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=159</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=159"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:18:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Materials needed: */ pulled leading spaces to get rid of implied nowiki&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front&lt;br /&gt;
    Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
* Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Left:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Back Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Back Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Straps:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=158</id>
		<title>Westy curtains</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Westy_curtains&amp;diff=158"/>
		<updated>2010-05-09T03:17:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: fixing category indicator&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Westfalia]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Curtains ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 10 curtains, 8 of which make up four pairs. Imagine being inside your van facing front. Turn in a clockwise circle and you'll see the curtains in this order, and notice how they're hung:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front&lt;br /&gt;
    Snaps to the van interior at sides and top; covers drivers and front-passenger's side windows as well as windshield; has elastic edge at top that drapes over the visors &lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; has elastic at bottom with a plastic ring at each end that holds the bottom edge of the curtain closer to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Passenger-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; passenger-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Back-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from flat curtain rods top and bottom &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs from a flat curtain rod; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Closet-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Left&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
Sink-Right&lt;br /&gt;
    Hangs using drapery sliders; driver-side bungee cord attached to the van interior holds bottom edges close to the van &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Materials needed: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make replacement curtains, you'll need to get:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fabric: see &amp;quot;Fabric and Layout&amp;quot; below for amount to buy&lt;br /&gt;
    * Thread: to match your fabric&lt;br /&gt;
    * Drapery Ribbon: 5-1/2 yards&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sliding-Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 45&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sliding-Door O-rings: 5/8&amp;quot; outer diameter.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Front Door Elastic: 1/4&amp;quot; by 56&amp;quot; when not stretched.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Small Curtain Snaps: 6 sets of 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-to-medium weight fabric&lt;br /&gt;
    * Large Curtain Snap: 1 heavy-duty snap (for snap N in the flat-plan below)&lt;br /&gt;
    * Van-Body Snaps: 14 sets of heavy-duty snaps with screw-in studs &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hints on buying stuff ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you care what your curtains will look like from the outside, look at both sides of the fabric. Try to get fabric that doesn't unravel easily, since it's harder to work with and may fall apart when/if you ever wash your curtains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap thread is a nuisance to work with. Buy good thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cheap elastic will soon lose its stretch. Buy good elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's a source for some drapery ribbon that might work: Recmar Products; look for &amp;quot;wrinkle-band tape&amp;quot;. I haven't seen this stuff in person, but it seems to be similar to what's on the Westy curtains. Otherwise, you might try to build your own (see section at bottom). GoWesty and BusDepot both sell curtain hardware, but not the drapery ribbon.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The small curtain snaps are 3/8&amp;quot; snaps for light-weight or medium-weight fabric. When I used snaps, I always use the no-sew ones (comparable to Dritz 15-65). They should be available at any sewing goods store or department; usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 with an attaching tool. You'll need 6. But buy extras ... they're thin and a bit fiddly to attach, and you'll likely mess up one or two. They're not horribly expensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The large curtain snap is a 5/8&amp;quot; heavy-duty snap (comparable to Dritz 5-1). It should also be available at any sewing goods store or department.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Van-Body Snaps - to see what the parts look like, go to this page and look at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All stainless steel cap&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the curtain) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Socket&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the van body) Durable Fasteners All Stainless Steel Stud&lt;br /&gt;
    * (for the van body) Screw Stud (stainless steel) 3/8&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need six for the front curtain, and seven more for the curtain straps (though we never close our Closet Left curtain ... and I'm not even sure it has a curtain strap). You can probably find them at a marine store or an RV store. I think I bought some in a kit with an attaching tool at a Wal-Mart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fabric and Layout ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yardage is typically sold in widths of 45&amp;quot; or 60&amp;quot;. You might be able to find fabric in different widths, and you'll need to create a layout like these to determine how much to buy. Your fabric might have a one-way pattern, such as stripes, which limits the way you can cut your fabric. The dimensions shown here are the sizes you should cut (finished curtain sizes are in a diagram below). If you err in the size of the curtains, always err too large. At worst, your curtains will be looser and longer but they'll still cover your windows!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You'll need 5-3/4 yards of either width for the Front and Sliding-Door curtains as well as the curtain straps: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 60&amp;quot; wide fabric you'll need an additional 4 yards for the other curtains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide one-way fabric you'll need an additional 7-3/4 yards for the other curtains (if you try to lay out the curtains sideways as for non-one-way fabric, your pattern will be going the wrong way!): &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have 45&amp;quot; wide *non* one-way fabric you'll need an additional 6-1/2 yards for the other curtains: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram showing Cut size and Finished Size. It also shows how each edge gets finished and shows snap placement. If there's only one snap, such as A, then it snaps to the interior of the van. On the double-width strap, snap N snaps to itself (it doesn't have screw-in stud; but snap O snaps to a screw-in stud in the van body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the steps to follow to construct each curtain. For some techniques, see the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Front:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 0.5&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1.5&amp;quot; hem at top, with partial elastic (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply six van-body snaps as shown in the diagram. The centers of snaps A and F are 15&amp;quot; below the finished top edge of the curtain and they are inside the side hem. Snaps B and E are on the top hem, just inside the side hem. The centers of snaps C and D are 31&amp;quot; from the finished sides of the curtain, and they are inside the top hem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sliding Door:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; tube at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Thread elastic through tube and attach o-rings to both ends of elastic.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Tack the elastic to the curtain at each bottom corner (see diagram below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Over-Sink Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew drapery ribbon at top.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Passenger Right:&lt;br /&gt;
Closet Left:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1&amp;quot; hem at bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Back Left:&lt;br /&gt;
Back Right:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at top (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew a 2&amp;quot; tube at bottom (see 'techniques' below).&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply curtain snaps as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Straps:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold (don't sew) a 1/2&amp;quot; hem on both sides.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold the top and bottom cut edge towards the middle.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Fold once more so the straps are 4 thicknesses.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Sew around the four edges, near to the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply van-body snaps as shown in the diagram.&lt;br /&gt;
    * Apply large snap N as shown in the diagram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Techniques ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a hem, fold the fabric once the width of the hem and then fold it again. Sew near the top of the second fold, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To sew a tube, first sew a hem. Then sew a second seam near the edge of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing the bottom edge of the sliding-door curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a diagram showing how to sew the elastic into the front curtain:&lt;br /&gt;
Tack the two ends of the elastic close to the top cut edge, and sew through the middle of the elastic while stretching it so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric twice, as for a hem.&lt;br /&gt;
While you sew the seam as for the hem, stretch the elastic so the fabric lies flat while you sew.&lt;br /&gt;
(Can someone describe this better?)  &amp;lt;need to make this text red&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are diagrams showing how to sew on the drapery ribbon:&lt;br /&gt;
Lay the drapery ribbon on the *right* side of the fabric, 1&amp;quot; down from the cut edge.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the two ends of the drapery ribbon around to the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the top edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
(Optional) Sew the draper ribbon to the fabric at the bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
Fold the fabric down 1&amp;quot; as though for a hem, and then again 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Sew across the top edge and bottom edge of the drapery ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== If you need to construct drapery ribbon ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's what the drapery ribbon looks like. If you need to construct some, you'll need 3/4&amp;quot; or 1&amp;quot; cloth ribbon and 1/4&amp;quot; cloth ribbon.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here's the pattern that shows how to attach ribbons together. The hatched areas show where the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon is sewn to the wider ribbon, and the blank areas are loops (not sewn). But if I were going to construct drapery ribbon, I wouldn't worry too much about following this pattern. I'd just make a note of how many pairs of loops I needed for my drapery hangers, and lay out and sew the 1/4&amp;quot; ribbon to the wider ribbon appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;need to insert an image here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Now that this is on the Vanagon wiki, if you have additions, comments, corrections then please edit the Vanagon Wiki ... ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;need to turn this text red&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=152</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=152"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T21:17:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Incomplete */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out, they hold the lever assembly to the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you look down through the hole that the instrument cluster left, up near the top on the passenger side you'll see a third screw that also holds the lever assembly.  It needs to come out, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull heater channels===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ducts that channel the heat/fresh air/whatever slide off easily, but probably a little more easily if you do it before you start trying to pull the dash at the end.  Just use the vents as a guide, reach behind the vent and pull the duct thing off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pull out the dash ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found that it was kind of hung on the brackets that the anti-theft bolt things attached to.  I got the bottom of it wiggled off of those first and then it wasn't too terrible after that.  I had to pull pretty hard but I couldn't see what was causing the resistance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=151</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=151"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T21:13:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Remove heater knobs and faceplate */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out, they hold the lever assembly to the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you look down through the hole that the instrument cluster left, up near the top on the passenger side you'll see a third screw that also holds the lever assembly.  It needs to come out, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=150</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=150"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T21:09:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Drop the steering column */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=149</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=149"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T21:09:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Drop the steering column */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=148</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=148"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T21:07:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Remove heater knobs and faceplate */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, for three of the levers.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly diamond-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=147</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=147"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T19:58:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, on some of them.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :).  I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove radio===&lt;br /&gt;
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===&lt;br /&gt;
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it.  I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together.  I should probably mark the socket too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the main dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly diamond-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle.  It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet.  There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top.  Put your hands, palm up, into these slots.  The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force.  Pull straight back to the back of the van.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=145</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=145"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T19:26:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, on some of them.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop the steering column===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a roughly diamond-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it.  It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column).  There is also a metal clip holding this piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here.  All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now to take off the steering wheel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pry off the &amp;quot;horn button&amp;quot; (the big thing you press to sound the horn).  You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case).  Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column.  Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four bolts that hold the steering column up.  Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped).  The idea is to make it a pain to get them off.  You can use vise-grips or whatever.  I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers.  Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble.  The other two bolts are 13mm.  Take these out and let the steering column drop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right.  I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that.  Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be.  Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition?  I don't know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=144</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=144"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T17:20:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, on some of them.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove the dash screws===&lt;br /&gt;
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body.  Remove all of them.  Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place.  You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process.  YMMV.&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=143</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=143"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T17:16:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===&lt;br /&gt;
The switch for the fan and the heater levers &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; pull off.  I have &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; in quotation marks because it was really hard on mine, on some of them.  I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers to get them off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts.  I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it.  In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incomplete===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=142</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=142"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T16:41:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Disconnect the battery===&lt;br /&gt;
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Next step===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I go :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=141</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=141"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T16:33:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Pull the instrument cluster */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Next step===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I go :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=140</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=140"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T16:32:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Pull the instrument cluster */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thinking.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull up and forward.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it hangs up some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand.  It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Next step===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I go :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=139</id>
		<title>Remove dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Remove_dash&amp;diff=139"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T16:31:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with '==How to remove the dash== ===Pull the instrument cluster=== Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thinking.  There are finger holes back t…'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==How to remove the dash==&lt;br /&gt;
===Pull the instrument cluster===&lt;br /&gt;
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thinking.  There are finger holes back there.  Put your fingers in the holes and pull up and forward.  It is likely to come off really easily.  If it doesn't some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it on the bottom front corner or side]&lt;br /&gt;
===Next step===&lt;br /&gt;
I'm writing this as I go :).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=New_owner_checklist&amp;diff=138</id>
		<title>New owner checklist</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=New_owner_checklist&amp;diff=138"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T16:24:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* Component Replacement */ emphasized replacing fuel lines&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Every new Vanagon owner should do a series of things upon acquiring a new Vanagon, no matter what the year or style.  This list is a recommended set of items.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Review previous owner's maintenance records&lt;br /&gt;
** Consider tracking maintenance history in a spreadsheet&lt;br /&gt;
* Acquire a [http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ Bentley] repair manual appropriate for your year of Vanagon&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Component Replacement ==&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Replace all [http://benplace.com/fuel_line.htm fuel lines] in the car!'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Consider replacing [[Vacuum system|vacuum lines]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Component Inspections ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Inspect all [[Cooling system|coolant hoses]] and look for leaks around heater cores&lt;br /&gt;
* Check [[Electrical system|battery]] for proper voltage&lt;br /&gt;
* Inspect all body seams, undercarriage and floor areas for rust&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fluid Flushes ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Flush [[Cooling system|coolant]] with a phosphate-free/distilled water mixture (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* Flush brake fluid&lt;br /&gt;
* Flush power steering fluid&lt;br /&gt;
* Change the [[Recommended oil types|oil]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Change the transmission fluid&lt;br /&gt;
* Refill the wiper resevoirs front and rear&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Zetec_Conversion&amp;diff=137</id>
		<title>Zetec Conversion</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Zetec_Conversion&amp;diff=137"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T05:54:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: corrected category designation&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A conversion that uses a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zetec_engine Ford Zetec] engine mated to the Vanagon transmission via a [http://www.bostig.com/products conversion kit] from [http://bostig.com Bostig Engineering].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:conversions]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Zetec_Conversion&amp;diff=136</id>
		<title>Zetec Conversion</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Zetec_Conversion&amp;diff=136"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T05:53:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: just a stub really, but does explain what &amp;quot;zetec&amp;quot; means at least.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A conversion that uses a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zetec_engine Ford Zetec] engine mated to the Vanagon transmission via a [http://www.bostig.com/products conversion kit] from [http://bostig.com Bostig Engineering].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Category:conversions]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Conversions&amp;diff=135</id>
		<title>Conversions</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Conversions&amp;diff=135"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T05:49:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: link to Bostig, link to still-to-be-created Zetec page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is just a placeholder now, but eventually it will be a front page for information about all the kinds of powertrain conversions that people do to their Vanagons.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some examples:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* EJ22/EJ25/EG33/EZ30 (Subaru)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Zetec Conversion | Zetec]], aka Bostig, (after [http://www.bostig.com/products/bostig-20 Bostig Engineering] who produces the kits)&lt;br /&gt;
* Jetta &lt;br /&gt;
* Diesel/Biodiesel&lt;br /&gt;
* v6 (Chevrolet/Buick/VW)&lt;br /&gt;
* v8 (Chevrolet/VW)&lt;br /&gt;
* Porsche&lt;br /&gt;
* Corvair&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:conversions]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=132</id>
		<title>Main Page</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=132"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T04:44:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: /* What's here? */ Pointing out recent changes link&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;lt;big&amp;gt;'''The Vanagon Wiki is being rebuilt'''&amp;lt;/big&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
== History ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Vanagon Wiki was created on August 7, 2007. It is intended to be a central repository for all information Vanagon-related (however loosely). Like the Vanagon.com list archives, the wiki will preserve and convey the distilled wisdom of those who love, maintain, repair, and modify these unique vehicles. But unlike the archives, these pages will not only be quicker to access, they are &amp;quot;live,&amp;quot; meaning that any registered user can edit a topic for accuracy or clarity or add new information as it comes along; and any registered user can create new topic pages. If you consider yourself to be an expert in a particular area then [[Special:UserLogin|register]] and create a new page so others can benefit from your experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Vanagon Wiki data was lost due to a series of unfortunate events (how Vanagon-like), and, as of May 2010, is being actively rebuilt by a special segment of the [http://www.vanagonauts.com/index.phtml?catid=74 Vanagon Rescue Squad].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What's here? ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Not much, yet.  Any pages that have been assigned a category can be accessed through their category page.  A list of all the categories is at [[Special:Categories]].  Since all the work we've done on this is still very recent, you can also discover what's been going on by looking at the [[Special:RecentChanges|&amp;quot;Recent Changes&amp;quot;]] link on the left-side navigation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See below if you want to learn how to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting started ==&lt;br /&gt;
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=131</id>
		<title>Main Page</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=131"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T04:41:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Link to the category pages&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;lt;big&amp;gt;'''The Vanagon Wiki is being rebuilt'''&amp;lt;/big&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
== History ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Vanagon Wiki was created on August 7, 2007. It is intended to be a central repository for all information Vanagon-related (however loosely). Like the Vanagon.com list archives, the wiki will preserve and convey the distilled wisdom of those who love, maintain, repair, and modify these unique vehicles. But unlike the archives, these pages will not only be quicker to access, they are &amp;quot;live,&amp;quot; meaning that any registered user can edit a topic for accuracy or clarity or add new information as it comes along; and any registered user can create new topic pages. If you consider yourself to be an expert in a particular area then [[Special:UserLogin|register]] and create a new page so others can benefit from your experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Vanagon Wiki data was lost due to a series of unfortunate events (how Vanagon-like), and, as of May 2010, is being actively rebuilt by a special segment of the [http://www.vanagonauts.com/index.phtml?catid=74 Vanagon Rescue Squad].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What's here? ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Not much, yet.  Any pages that have been assigned a category can be accessed through their category page.  A list of all the categories is at [[Special:Categories]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See below if you want to learn how to help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting started ==&lt;br /&gt;
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Bentley_manual&amp;diff=130</id>
		<title>Bentley manual</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Bentley_manual&amp;diff=130"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T04:40:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: stub page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;(This is a stub page.  Someone should put a good description of the Bentley here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:manuals]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Understanding_bentley&amp;diff=129</id>
		<title>Category:Understanding bentley</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Understanding_bentley&amp;diff=129"/>
		<updated>2010-05-08T04:39:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with 'The Bentley manual is a crucial tool in working on your Vanagon, but it takes a bit of getting used to to learn how to get the most out of it.  This category is for tips and …'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The [[Bentley manual]] is a crucial tool in working on your Vanagon, but it takes a bit of getting used to to learn how to get the most out of it.  This category is for tips and tricks on getting the most out of your Bentley.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=127</id>
		<title>Solving wiring diagrams -- a technique</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=127"/>
		<updated>2010-05-07T17:23:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;In understanding Vanagon (or any other) wiring diagrams there is a&lt;br /&gt;
not-so-little trick that will make it vastly easier to figure out&lt;br /&gt;
what's really going on in a circuit.  Before you can do this of&lt;br /&gt;
course you have to be familiar with Bentley 97.3-97.6. so the&lt;br /&gt;
diagrams make any sense at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The trick is this:  First copy the page in question (an enlarged copy can be helpful&lt;br /&gt;
because the wires are quite close together in the original pictures) so you won't&lt;br /&gt;
wreck the original if you mess up somewhere.  Get yourself an&lt;br /&gt;
assortment of colored pencils/markers, at least five or six including brown&lt;br /&gt;
and red.  Then take a look at&lt;br /&gt;
http://picasaweb.google.com/dbeierl/FiguringOutVanagonWiringDiagrams#&lt;br /&gt;
for a working example of how it's done.  You may want to keep it open&lt;br /&gt;
to refer to or make a color print of it to use the first time or two&lt;br /&gt;
you do this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by locating the grounds.  Since this is a physical schematic&lt;br /&gt;
some of them may originate far away from where you're looking even if&lt;br /&gt;
it would be easier to understand if they simply drew all of them&lt;br /&gt;
straight down to line at the bottom line of the page, which is&lt;br /&gt;
chassis ground.  Every terminal labeled as 31 is a ground.  Every&lt;br /&gt;
ground you find, draw  a brown line next to the wiring for its whole&lt;br /&gt;
length. For switched grounds I recommend a dashed line instead of&lt;br /&gt;
solid upstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then look for the +12 supply wires and color them red.  You may well&lt;br /&gt;
want to use different colors for unswitched (terminal 30), switched&lt;br /&gt;
by ignition (terminal 15),  and switched by the load reduction relay&lt;br /&gt;
(X-terminal on ignition switch operates it; power upstream is 30 at&lt;br /&gt;
the relay, downstream (switched) is 87 like all relay&lt;br /&gt;
outputs.  Again, power that's switched downstream should use a dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line downstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now pick a wire and figure out what it does.  Follow it off the page&lt;br /&gt;
if necessary and label where it goes on your drawing.  If you can't&lt;br /&gt;
figure it out, pick another wire.  As soon as you know what it does,&lt;br /&gt;
label it as such then pick a color for it and draw solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line as appropriate.  If a single wire does multiple things, as in&lt;br /&gt;
the circuit from 53e at the motor up to the switch, down to the relay&lt;br /&gt;
and thence to the motor 53 terminal, use multiple solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
lines as appropriate (Note: the pink wire should be dotted for its&lt;br /&gt;
entire length and there should also be a brown dotted line for the&lt;br /&gt;
whole length of that circuit.  Can you discover why?  Answers on&lt;br /&gt;
request.  Hint: I missed one of the functions of the auto-park switch).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep on doing this for wire after wire until you understand them all&lt;br /&gt;
(or are certain you understand enough of them, which may or may not&lt;br /&gt;
be true).  Each wire you figure out makes the rest easier, and the&lt;br /&gt;
colored lines take away the visual anonymity of Joe Random&lt;br /&gt;
Black-line-on-the-page.  Now you can follow the circuit around and&lt;br /&gt;
find out where a particular problem might (or must) lie as well as&lt;br /&gt;
where it cannot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the second time I figured out this particular wiper&lt;br /&gt;
circuit.  The first time I forgot this trick I learned thirty years&lt;br /&gt;
ago, and it took me over an hour.  This time I remembered, and it&lt;br /&gt;
took about ten minutes after I found the colored pencils and&lt;br /&gt;
photographed the page.  And I was easily (but not in ten minutes)&lt;br /&gt;
able to establish that the relay cannot possibly be correct as drawn&lt;br /&gt;
(since at some point it would hook +12 directly to ground) and how it&lt;br /&gt;
would actually have to be (which happens to coincide with the diagram&lt;br /&gt;
molded into the side of the actual 19 relay, but I didn't know that&lt;br /&gt;
at the time.  I definitely did *not* figure that part out the other time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adds Roger:  &amp;quot;Once you learn these diagrams, you can troubleshoot any circuit easily, or do a conversion. Many of the color codes for Vanagon are the same for Jetta , Golf etc.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Originally posted on the vanagon mailing list by David Beierl with additions from response by Robert Keezer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:diagnostic_tips]][[category:understanding_bentley]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=126</id>
		<title>Solving wiring diagrams -- a technique</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=126"/>
		<updated>2010-05-07T17:22:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: restored, having received permission from David through email&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;David Bierl:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In understanding Vanagon (or any other) wiring diagrams there is a&lt;br /&gt;
not-so-little trick that will make it vastly easier to figure out&lt;br /&gt;
what's really going on in a circuit.  Before you can do this of&lt;br /&gt;
course you have to be familiar with Bentley 97.3-97.6. so the&lt;br /&gt;
diagrams make any sense at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The trick is this:  First copy the page in question (an enlarged copy can be helpful&lt;br /&gt;
because the wires are quite close together in the original pictures) so you won't&lt;br /&gt;
wreck the original if you mess up somewhere.  Get yourself an&lt;br /&gt;
assortment of colored pencils/markers, at least five or six including brown&lt;br /&gt;
and red.  Then take a look at&lt;br /&gt;
http://picasaweb.google.com/dbeierl/FiguringOutVanagonWiringDiagrams#&lt;br /&gt;
for a working example of how it's done.  You may want to keep it open&lt;br /&gt;
to refer to or make a color print of it to use the first time or two&lt;br /&gt;
you do this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by locating the grounds.  Since this is a physical schematic&lt;br /&gt;
some of them may originate far away from where you're looking even if&lt;br /&gt;
it would be easier to understand if they simply drew all of them&lt;br /&gt;
straight down to line at the bottom line of the page, which is&lt;br /&gt;
chassis ground.  Every terminal labeled as 31 is a ground.  Every&lt;br /&gt;
ground you find, draw  a brown line next to the wiring for its whole&lt;br /&gt;
length. For switched grounds I recommend a dashed line instead of&lt;br /&gt;
solid upstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then look for the +12 supply wires and color them red.  You may well&lt;br /&gt;
want to use different colors for unswitched (terminal 30), switched&lt;br /&gt;
by ignition (terminal 15),  and switched by the load reduction relay&lt;br /&gt;
(X-terminal on ignition switch operates it; power upstream is 30 at&lt;br /&gt;
the relay, downstream (switched) is 87 like all relay&lt;br /&gt;
outputs.  Again, power that's switched downstream should use a dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line downstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now pick a wire and figure out what it does.  Follow it off the page&lt;br /&gt;
if necessary and label where it goes on your drawing.  If you can't&lt;br /&gt;
figure it out, pick another wire.  As soon as you know what it does,&lt;br /&gt;
label it as such then pick a color for it and draw solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line as appropriate.  If a single wire does multiple things, as in&lt;br /&gt;
the circuit from 53e at the motor up to the switch, down to the relay&lt;br /&gt;
and thence to the motor 53 terminal, use multiple solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
lines as appropriate (Note: the pink wire should be dotted for its&lt;br /&gt;
entire length and there should also be a brown dotted line for the&lt;br /&gt;
whole length of that circuit.  Can you discover why?  Answers on&lt;br /&gt;
request.  Hint: I missed one of the functions of the auto-park switch).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep on doing this for wire after wire until you understand them all&lt;br /&gt;
(or are certain you understand enough of them, which may or may not&lt;br /&gt;
be true).  Each wire you figure out makes the rest easier, and the&lt;br /&gt;
colored lines take away the visual anonymity of Joe Random&lt;br /&gt;
Black-line-on-the-page.  Now you can follow the circuit around and&lt;br /&gt;
find out where a particular problem might (or must) lie as well as&lt;br /&gt;
where it cannot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the second time I figured out this particular wiper&lt;br /&gt;
circuit.  The first time I forgot this trick I learned thirty years&lt;br /&gt;
ago, and it took me over an hour.  This time I remembered, and it&lt;br /&gt;
took about ten minutes after I found the colored pencils and&lt;br /&gt;
photographed the page.  And I was easily (but not in ten minutes)&lt;br /&gt;
able to establish that the relay cannot possibly be correct as drawn&lt;br /&gt;
(since at some point it would hook +12 directly to ground) and how it&lt;br /&gt;
would actually have to be (which happens to coincide with the diagram&lt;br /&gt;
molded into the side of the actual 19 relay, but I didn't know that&lt;br /&gt;
at the time.  I definitely did *not* figure that part out the other time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adds Roger:  &amp;quot;Once you learn these diagrams, you can troubleshoot any circuit easily, or do a conversion. Many of the color codes for Vanagon are the same for Jetta , Golf etc.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Originally posted on the vanagon mailing list by David Beierl with additions from response by Robert Keezer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:diagnostic_tips]][[category:understanding_bentley]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Diagnostic_tips&amp;diff=125</id>
		<title>Category:Diagnostic tips</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Category:Diagnostic_tips&amp;diff=125"/>
		<updated>2010-05-07T17:15:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Created page with 'Articles about helping people figure out what's going on.'&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Articles about helping people figure out what's going on.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=124</id>
		<title>Solving wiring diagrams -- a technique</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://t3wiki.org/index.php?title=Solving_wiring_diagrams_--_a_technique&amp;diff=124"/>
		<updated>2010-05-07T17:14:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Msouth: Undo revision 122 by Msouth (Talk)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;David Bierl:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In understanding Vanagon (or any other) wiring diagrams there is a&lt;br /&gt;
not-so-little trick that will make it vastly easier to figure out&lt;br /&gt;
what's really going on in a circuit.  Before you can do this of&lt;br /&gt;
course you have to be familiar with Bentley 97.3-97.6. so the&lt;br /&gt;
diagrams make any sense at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The trick is this:  First copy the page in question so you won't&lt;br /&gt;
wreck the original if you mess up somewhere.  Get yourself an&lt;br /&gt;
assortment of colored pencils, at least five or six including brown&lt;br /&gt;
and red.  Then take a look at&lt;br /&gt;
http://picasaweb.google.com/dbeierl/FiguringOutVanagonWiringDiagrams#&lt;br /&gt;
for a working example of how it's done.  You may want to keep it open&lt;br /&gt;
to refer to or make a color print of it to use the first time or two&lt;br /&gt;
you do this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by locating the grounds.  Since this is a physical schematic&lt;br /&gt;
some of them may originate far away from where you're looking even if&lt;br /&gt;
it would be easier to understand if they simply drew all of them&lt;br /&gt;
straight down to line at the bottom line of the page, which is&lt;br /&gt;
chassis ground.  Every terminal labeled as 31 is a ground.  Every&lt;br /&gt;
ground you find, draw  a brown line next to the wiring for its whole&lt;br /&gt;
length. For switched grounds I recommend a dashed line instead of&lt;br /&gt;
solid upstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then look for the +12 supply wires and color them red.  You may well&lt;br /&gt;
want to use different colors for unswitched (terminal 30), switched&lt;br /&gt;
by ignition (terminal 15),  and switched by the load reduction relay&lt;br /&gt;
(X-terminal on ignition switch operates it; power upstream is 30 at&lt;br /&gt;
the relay, downstream (switched) is 87 like all relay&lt;br /&gt;
outputs.  Again, power that's switched downstream should use a dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line downstream of the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now pick a wire and figure out what it does.  Follow it off the page&lt;br /&gt;
if necessary and label where it goes on your drawing.  If you can't&lt;br /&gt;
figure it out, pick another wire.  As soon as you know what it does,&lt;br /&gt;
label it as such then pick a color for it and draw solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
line as appropriate.  If a single wire does multiple things, as in&lt;br /&gt;
the circuit from 53e at the motor up to the switch, down to the relay&lt;br /&gt;
and thence to the motor 53 terminal, use multiple solid or dashed&lt;br /&gt;
lines as appropriate (Note: the pink wire should be dotted for its&lt;br /&gt;
entire length and there should also be a brown dotted line for the&lt;br /&gt;
whole length of that circuit.  Can you discover why?  Answers on&lt;br /&gt;
request.  Hint: I missed one of the functions of the auto-park switch).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep on doing this for wire after wire until you understand them all&lt;br /&gt;
(or are certain you understand enough of them, which may or may not&lt;br /&gt;
be true).  Each wire you figure out makes the rest easier, and the&lt;br /&gt;
colored lines take away the visual anonymity of Joe Random&lt;br /&gt;
Black-line-on-the-page.  Now you can follow the circuit around and&lt;br /&gt;
find out where a particular problem might (or must) lie as well as&lt;br /&gt;
where it cannot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the second time I figured out this particular wiper&lt;br /&gt;
circuit.  The first time I forgot this trick I learned thirty years&lt;br /&gt;
ago, and it took me over an hour.  This time I remembered, and it&lt;br /&gt;
took about ten minutes after I found the colored pencils and&lt;br /&gt;
photographed the page.  And I was easily (but not in ten minutes)&lt;br /&gt;
able to establish that the relay cannot possibly be correct as drawn&lt;br /&gt;
(since at some point it would hook +12 directly to ground) and how it&lt;br /&gt;
would actually have to be (which happens to coincide with the diagram&lt;br /&gt;
molded into the side of the actual 19 relay, but I didn't know that&lt;br /&gt;
at the time.  I definitely did *not* figure that part out the other time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yours,&lt;br /&gt;
David&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Robert Keezer adds:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is an idea I had 15 years ago when I was installing Digifant 2 and later Motronic fuel injection wiring in my 82 Westfalia ,with one additional trick-&lt;br /&gt;
make the copies larger than the Bentley, making them easier to read.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The circuit tracks are very close on top of the page, and I mixed up the 1 wire with the 15 wire and fried the computer before I ever got it started.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Colored marking pens also work well. Once you learn these diagrams, you can troubleshoot any circuit easily, or do a conversion. Many of the color codes for Vanagon are the same for Jetta , Golf etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:diagnostic_tips]][[category:understanding_bentley]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Msouth</name></author>
		
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