Vanagon Wiki - User contributions [en]

LED Lights

2012-06-01T04:40:32Z

MariusStrom: /* Interior Lights */

First recommendation is to upgrade the rear lights to make use of all sections. See [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=185350&highlight=tail+light this article] on TheSamba for details.

== Shopping List for LED Lights ==

Upgrading to LED lights is a quick and easy upgrade for your Vanagon. In this article, I'll reference part numbers from [http://www.superbrightleds.com/ SuperBrightLEDs.com].

=== Exterior Lights ===

Most exterior lights on the Vanagon are of the Bayonet 15mm size, with a few exceptions.

{| class="FCK__ShowTableBorders"
|-
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Light Position'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Part Number'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Color'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Description'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Quantity Required'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Comments'''
|-
| Front Parking/Turn Lights
| 1157-A18-T
| Amber
| BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
| Consider the 1157-A45-T for brighter lights, but A18-T seems bright enough
|-
| Rear Side Marker Lights
| BA9s-R-x-12V
| Red
| Wide Angle Bulb 90 Degree
| 2
|
|-
| Brake Lights
| 1156-R45-T
| Red
| BA15 45 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Rear Running Lights
| 1156-R19
| Red
| BA15 19-LED Bulb Wide
| 2 (or 4 with upgrade)
|
|-
| Rear Turn Lights
| 1156-A18-T
| Amber
| BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Reverse Lights
| 1156-W12
| Cool White
| BA15 12-LED Bulb Narrow
| 2
|
|-
| License Plate Lights
| BA9s-W-x-12V
| Cool White
| Wide Angle Bulb 120 Degree
| 2
| These are a little dim, but the coverage is good.
|-
|
|}

=== Interior Lights ===

{| class="FCK__ShowTableBorders"
|-
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Light Position'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Part Number'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Color'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Description'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Quantity Required'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Comments'''
|-
| Instrument Panel
| B8.3D-W
| Cool White
| B8 series Instrument LED bulb
| 4
| Instrument Panel: Speedo, Tacho, Warning Cluster, Clock
|-
| Driver\'s Dome Light
|
|
|
| 1
|
|-
| Passenger Map Light
|
|
|
| 1
|
|-
| Climate Control Panel
| 74-WHP
| Cool White
| Wedge Base LED bulb
| 1
|
|-
| Auto Tranny Shift Housing
| 74-WHP
| Cool White
| Wedge Base LED bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Incandescent Camper Lights
| 4210-WWHP3
| Warm White
| 4210 Festoon
| 3
|
|-
|
|}

[[Category:Electrical]] [[Category:Upgrades]]

Bolt tightening schedule

2012-01-10T05:34:04Z

MariusStrom: Adding oil drain plug.

This page will provide references to all bolts that need tightening per manufacturer's specification.

== Engine ==
=== Waterboxer, 2.1L ===

*Oil Drain Plug - 18 ft. lb.

== Transmission ==

=== Automatic Transmission ===

*Oil Pan - 20 Nm (14 ft. lb.)<ref name="autotranny">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 38.25</ref>
*Oil Strainer Cover - 3 Nm (26 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />
*Valve Body - 4 Nm (35 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />

=== Differential (Automatic Transmission) ===

*Oil Pan - 10 Nm (7 ft. lb.)<ref name="autodiff">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 39.50</ref>
**Note: tighten diagonally, retorque twice more after intervals of 5 minutes

== Interior ==
* Steering wheel retention bolt - 50 Nm (36 ft. lb.)<ref name="steeringwheel">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 94.2</ref>

 

== References ==

<references />

[[Category:Maintenance]]

List of parts suppliers

2011-06-14T04:00:59Z

MariusStrom: typo fix

{{how to edit this page}}

----

''Note: VanagonWiki and its administrators do not receive anything in return for the following links, nor do we guarantee success with any of these suppliers. These are purely commonly used providers of Vanagon- and Westfalia-specific parts, and are in purely alphabetical order (not indicative of any preference). ''

*[http://www.busdepot.com/ Bus Depot]
*[http://www.burleysmotorsports.com/ Burley Motorsports]
*[http://germansupply.com/home/customer/home.php German Supply]
*[http://www.gowesty.com/ Go Westy]
*[http://www.oeveedub.com/ OE Vee Dub]
*[http://www.van-cafe.com/ Van Cafe]
*[http://www.vanagain.com/ Van Again]
*[http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/ Volkswagen Classic Parts]

[[Category:Maintenance]]

List of parts suppliers

2011-06-14T04:00:23Z

MariusStrom: Adding Burley Motorsports

{{how to edit this page}}

----

''Note: VanagonWiki and its administrators do not receive anything in return for the following links, nor do we guarantee success with any of these suppliers. These are purely commonly used providers of Vanagon- and Westfalia-specific parts, and are in purely alphabetical order (not indicative of any preference). ''

*[http://www.busdepot.com/ Bus Depot]
*[http://www.burleymotorsports.com/ Burley Motorsports]
*[http://germansupply.com/home/customer/home.php German Supply]
*[http://www.gowesty.com/ Go Westy]
*[http://www.oeveedub.com/ OE Vee Dub]
*[http://www.van-cafe.com/ Van Cafe]
*[http://www.vanagain.com/ Van Again]
*[http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/ Volkswagen Classic Parts]

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Replacing window seals

2011-06-14T03:59:27Z

MariusStrom: Wiki-izing.

I'll describe the process I used to replace my window seals on my 1988 Vanagon Westfalia. The process should be substantially similar on all other Vanagons, but I'll denote where differences may occur. This guide assumes you're installing the "euro" look seals that do not have the chrome trim components.

Prior to starting this process, you should order the seal sets from your favorite Vanagon [[List of parts suppliers|vendor]]. The full set for each door includes:
* Vent Wing Seal
* Upper/Rear Guide
* Inner Scraper
* Outer Scraper
* Guidepost Felt

Bus Depot has a great [http://www.busdepot.com/details/vanagonrubber.jsp diagram] that explains the window seals.

Set aside about three hours each window if this is the first time you're doing this. Once you've done one window, the second will probably take a bit less time.

== Required Tools & Parts ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* Door panel removal tool
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==
Removing the door panel is a simple process that can be done in about 5 minutes. On my Westfalia, I have power windows, but not power locks. Those with power locks may differ slightly.

Before starting, reattach the window crank and roll down the window. We'll remove the window once most of the main seals are out.

== Removing Old Window Seals ==
The upper/rear window seal simply pulls out. When it was first installed, it was likely glued in place, but the glue is likely completely useless at this point.

The inner/outer window scrapers pull straight up and out. Beware of the 6 clips per door (3 per scraper), as these may fall into the door. Should they fall into the door, simply retrieve them (since the panel/trim has been removed, it's easy) and place the clips back into their holes.

At this point, your main window should be sitting loosely in its channel.

=== Removing the Main Window ===
Carefully roll the window up, making sure that you guide it carefully using the front guide (as you've removed all the others). Roll the window down slightly until you can see a 10mm bolt through a hole in the door metal, and use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the window to its channel. Once this is done, you can lift the window and tilt it up and out of the door. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the window, and store it someplace safe.

=== Vent Wing Window Removal ===
==== Vent Wing Window Removal ====
Unscrew the two torx screws holding the vent wing window to the attachment points. Once the vent wing window is unscrewed, unlatch it and remove it. Store it alongside your main window.

==== Vent Wing Seal Removal ====
Since I was replacing the vent wing seal, I simply started tugging on it to get it out of its position. I used a knife to cut away pieces of it at a time, which made the process easier.

==== Vent Wing Guidepost Removal ====
Here comes the first surprise of the process - the vertical guidepost is attached at two points, and has a triangular wedge of aluminum attached to it that the wing seals attach to, so the wing seals must be removed prior to removing the guidepost.

At the top of the vertical guide channel, there is a small philips head screw on the outer rim of the door, probably hidden by door weatherstripping. Peel back the weatherstripping, and unscrew the philips head screw. At the bottom of the guidepost is a 10mm bolt (probably beneath the plastic weather barrier on the door - either cut a notch in the plastic barrier or pull back the barrier from the top); unbolt this.

The guidepost and wing seal support frame can then be pulled slightly down and towards the back of the door. Look into the door hollow, and note the bracket at the bottom of the guidepost. I had the best luck removing the guidepost and bracket just behind the front-most set of clips, twisting it slightly to get out through the slot where the window lived.

Once the guidepost is out, simply pull out the felt in the channel.

You're now ready to reinstall everything.

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

List of regional clubs

2011-04-06T04:17:37Z

MariusStrom: /* Northeast */

This page will serve as a placeholder to provide links to regional and local Vanagon clubs around the world.

= International =
* [http://www.limbobus.org/ LiMBO - Late Model Bus Organization, international]

= North America =

== Pacific Northwest ==
* [http://www.wetwesties.org/ WetWesties - A Pacific Northwest Camping Society]

== Southwest ==
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SLCVanagons/ Salt Lake City Vanagons]

== Northeast ==
* [http://www.empirevwcamping.org/empirevw/ Empire VW Camping Club (New York)]
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ohiovalleytribe/ Ohio Valley Tribe]
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/PVC-VW/ Pittsburgh Vanagon Club]

== Southeast ==
* [http://fullmoonbusclub.com/ Full Moon Bus Club]
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vanagon_club/ FAVOR - Florida Association of Vanagon OwneRs]

== Midwest ==

== Canada ==

*[http://westfalia.qc.ca/ Club International de Camping Car Westfalia]
*[http://mononcenfolie.blogspot.com/ Les Mononcs en Folie - BLOG] (French) 
*[http://mononc.free.fr/LaUne.htm Les Mononcs en Folie - SITE] (French) 
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wvwv/ Winnipeg Volkswagen Drivers Wanted]

= South America =

= Europe =
* Poland - [http://www.syncro.pl/ Syncro Poland]
* Germany - [http://www.vwbc.de/index.htm VW Bus Koblenz, Germany]
* France - [http://syncro.club.free.fr/ Club des Syncroïstes]

= Australia =
* [http://www.clubvw.org.au/ Club VeeDub Sydney]

= Asia =

= Africa =

[[Category:Organizations]]

LED Lights

2010-12-18T21:09:12Z

MariusStrom: categorize

First recommendation is to upgrade the rear lights to make use of all sections. See [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=185350&highlight=tail+light this article] on TheSamba for details.

== Shopping List for LED Lights ==

Upgrading to LED lights is a quick and easy upgrade for your Vanagon. In this article, I'll reference part numbers from [http://www.superbrightleds.com/ SuperBrightLEDs.com].

=== Exterior Lights ===

Most exterior lights on the Vanagon are of the Bayonet 15mm size, with a few exceptions.

{| class="FCK__ShowTableBorders"
|-
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Light Position'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Part Number'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Color'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Description'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Quantity Required'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Comments'''
|-
| Front Parking/Turn Lights
| 1157-A18-T
| Amber
| BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
| Consider the 1157-A45-T for brighter lights, but A18-T seems bright enough
|-
| Rear Side Marker Lights
| BA9s-R-x-12V
| Red
| Wide Angle Bulb 90 Degree
| 2
|
|-
| Brake Lights
| 1156-R45-T
| Red
| BA15 45 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Rear Running Lights
| 1156-R19
| Red
| BA15 19-LED Bulb Wide
| 2 (or 4 with upgrade)
|
|-
| Rear Turn Lights
| 1156-A18-T
| Amber
| BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Reverse Lights
| 1156-W12
| Cool White
| BA15 12-LED Bulb Narrow
| 2
|
|-
| License Plate Lights
| BA9s-W-x-12V
| Cool White
| Wide Angle Bulb 120 Degree
| 2
| These are a little dim, but the coverage is good.
|-
|
|}

=== Interior Lights ===

{| class="FCK__ShowTableBorders"
|-
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Light Position'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Part Number'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Color'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Description'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Quantity Required'''
| style="background: #f0f0f0" align="center" | '''Comments'''
|-
| Instrument Panel
| B8.3D-W
| Cool White
| B8 series Instrument LED bulb
| 4
| Instrument Panel: Speedo, Tacho, Warning Cluster, Clock
|-
| Driver\'s Dome Light
|
|
|
| 1
|
|-
| Passenger Map Light
|
|
|
| 1
|
|-
| Climate Control Panel
| 74-WHP
| Cool White
| Wedge Base LED bulb
| 1
|
|-
| Auto Tranny Shift Housing
| 74-WHP
| Cool White
| Wedge Base LED bulb
| 2
|
|-
| Incandescent Camper Lights
|
|
|
| 3
|
|-
|
|}

[[Category:Electrical]] [[Category:Upgrades]]

LED Lights

2010-11-23T01:13:47Z

MariusStrom: Create page

First recommendation is to upgrade the rear lights to make use of all sections. See [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=185350&highlight=tail+light this article] on TheSamba for details.
== Shopping List for LED Lights ==
Upgrading to LED lights is a quick and easy upgrade for your Vanagon. In this article, I'll reference part numbers from [http://www.superbrightleds.com/ SuperBrightLEDs.com].
=== Exterior Lights ===
Most exterior lights on the Vanagon are of the Bayonet 15mm size, with a few exceptions.

{| {{table}}
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Light Position'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Part Number'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Color'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Description'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity Required'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Comments'''
|-
| Front Parking/Turn Lights||1157-A18-T||Amber||BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb||2||Consider the 1157-A45-T for brighter lights, but A18-T seems bright enough
|-
| Rear Side Marker Lights||BA9s-R-x-12V||Red||Wide Angle Bulb 90 Degree||2||
|-
| Brake Lights||1156-R45-T||Red||BA15 45 High Power LED Tower bulb||2||
|-
| Rear Running Lights||1156-R19||Red||BA15 19-LED Bulb Wide||2 (or 4 with upgrade)||
|-
| Rear Turn Lights||1156-A18-T||Amber||BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb||2||
|-
| Reverse Lights||1156-W12||Cool White||BA15 12-LED Bulb Narrow||2||
|-
| License Plate Lights||BA9s-W-x-12V||Cool White||Wide Angle Bulb 120 Degree||2||These are a little dim, but the coverage is good.
|-
|
|}

=== Interior Lights ===
{| {{table}}
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Light Position'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Part Number'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Color'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Description'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Quantity Required'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Comments'''
|-
| Instrument Panel||B8.3D-W||Cool White||B8 series Instrument LED bulb||4||Instrument Panel: Speedo, Tacho, Warning Cluster, Clock
|-
| Driver\'s Dome Light||||||||1||
|-
| Passenger Map Light||||||||1||
|-
| Climate Control Panel||74-WHP||Cool White||Wedge Base LED bulb||1||
|-
| Auto Tranny Shift Housing||74-WHP||Cool White||Wedge Base LED bulb||2||
|-
| Incandescent Camper Lights||||||||3||
|-
|
|}

Bolt tightening schedule

2010-07-20T05:58:32Z

MariusStrom: Add steering wheel retention bolt

This page will provide references to all bolts that need tightening per manufacturer's specification.

== Transmission ==

=== Automatic Transmission ===

*Oil Pan - 20 Nm (14 ft. lb.)<ref name="autotranny">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 38.25</ref>
*Oil Strainer Cover - 3 Nm (26 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />
*Valve Body - 4 Nm (35 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />

=== Differential (Automatic Transmission) ===

*Oil Pan - 10 Nm (7 ft. lb.)<ref name="autodiff">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 39.50</ref>
**Note: tighten diagonally, retorque twice more after intervals of 5 minutes

== Interior ==
* Steering wheel retention bolt - 50 Nm (36 ft. lb.)<ref name="steeringwheel">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 94.2</ref>

 

== References ==

<references />

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Living Off The Grid Articles

2010-07-12T20:48:41Z

MariusStrom: Add Westfalia category

==  Living Off The Grid Articles ==

{{how to edit this page}}

----

----

*[http://www.altavistaaudio.com/Westy/Vanagon/battcalc.html Battery Demand Calculator] (Opens in external page. Written for the fine folks in the VW Vanagon Westfalia community, but useful wherever fine living from lead-acid batteries is found. Calculates amperage, wattage, amp-hours of appliances.)

[[Category:Westfalia]]

List of regional clubs

2010-07-10T01:30:58Z

MariusStrom: Adding miscellaneous clubs.

This page will serve as a placeholder to provide links to regional and local Vanagon clubs around the world.

= International =
* [http://www.limbobus.org/ LiMBO - Late Model Bus Organization, international]

= North America =

== Pacific Northwest ==
* [http://www.wetwesties.org/ WetWesties - A Pacific Northwest Camping Society]

== Southwest ==
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SLCVanagons/ Salt Lake City Vanagons]

== Northeast ==
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ohiovalleytribe/ Ohio Valley Tribe]
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/PVC-VW/ Pittsburgh Vanagon Club]

== Southeast ==
* [http://fullmoonbusclub.com/ Full Moon Bus Club]
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vanagon_club/ FAVOR - Florida Association of Vanagon OwneRs]

== Midwest ==

== Canada ==

*[http://westfalia.qc.ca/ Club International de Camping Car Westfalia]
*[http://mononcenfolie.blogspot.com/ Les Mononcs en Folie - BLOG] (French) 
*[http://mononc.free.fr/LaUne.htm Les Mononcs en Folie - SITE] (French) 
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wvwv/ Winnipeg Volkswagen Drivers Wanted]

= South America =

= Europe =
* Poland - [http://www.syncro.pl/ Syncro Poland]
* Germany - [http://www.vwbc.de/index.htm VW Bus Koblenz, Germany]
* France - [http://syncro.club.free.fr/ Club des Syncroïstes]

= Australia =
* [http://www.clubvw.org.au/ Club VeeDub Sydney]

= Asia =

= Africa =

[[Category:Organizations]]

List of regional clubs

2010-07-10T01:25:11Z

MariusStrom: Add Pittsburgh Vanagon club.

This page will serve as a placeholder to provide links to regional and local Vanagon clubs around the world.

= International =
* [http://www.limbobus.org/ LiMBO - Late Model Bus Organization, international]

= North America =

== Pacific Northwest ==
* [http://www.wetwesties.org/ WetWesties - A Pacific Northwest Camping Society]

== Southwest ==

== Northeast ==
* [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/PVC-VW/ Pittsburgh Vanagon Club]

== Southeast ==
* [http://fullmoonbusclub.com/ Full Moon Bus Club]

== Midwest ==

== Canada ==

*[http://westfalia.qc.ca/ Club International de Camping Car Westfalia]
*[http://mononcenfolie.blogspot.com/ Les Mononcs en Folie - BLOG] (French) 
*[http://mononc.free.fr/LaUne.htm Les Mononcs en Folie - SITE] (French) 

= South America =

= Europe =
* Poland - [http://www.syncro.pl/ Syncro Poland]
* Germany - [http://www.vwbc.de/index.htm VW Bus Koblenz, Germany]
* France - [http://syncro.club.free.fr/ Club des Syncroïstes]

= Australia =
* [http://www.clubvw.org.au/ Club VeeDub Sydney]

= Asia =

= Africa =

[[Category:Organizations]]

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T03:56:13Z

MariusStrom: /* Required Tools & Parts */ Updating tools list

I'll describe the process I used to replace my window seals on my 1988 Vanagon Westfalia. The process should be substantially similar on all other Vanagons, but I'll denote where differences may occur. This guide assumes you're installing the "euro" look seals that do not have the chrome trim components.

Prior to starting this process, you should order the seal sets from your favorite Vanagon vendor. The full set for each door includes:
* Vent Wing Seal
* Upper/Rear Guide
* Inner Scraper
* Outer Scraper
* Guidepost Felt

Bus Depot has a great [http://www.busdepot.com/details/vanagonrubber.jsp diagram] that explains the window seals.

Set aside about three hours each window if this is the first time you're doing this. Once you've done one window, the second will probably take a bit less time.

== Required Tools & Parts ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* Door panel removal tool
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==
Removing the door panel is a simple process that can be done in about 5 minutes. On my Westfalia, I have power windows, but not power locks. Those with power locks may differ slightly.

Before starting, reattach the window crank and roll down the window. We'll remove the window once most of the main seals are out.

== Removing Old Window Seals ==
The upper/rear window seal simply pulls out. When it was first installed, it was likely glued in place, but the glue is likely completely useless at this point.

The inner/outer window scrapers pull straight up and out. Beware of the 6 clips per door (3 per scraper), as these may fall into the door. Should they fall into the door, simply retrieve them (since the panel/trim has been removed, it's easy) and place the clips back into their holes.

At this point, your main window should be sitting loosely in its channel.

=== Removing the Main Window ===
Carefully roll the window up, making sure that you guide it carefully using the front guide (as you've removed all the others). Roll the window down slightly until you can see a 10mm bolt through a hole in the door metal, and use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the window to its channel. Once this is done, you can lift the window and tilt it up and out of the door. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the window, and store it someplace safe.

=== Vent Wing Window Removal ===
==== Vent Wing Window Removal ====
Unscrew the two torx screws holding the vent wing window to the attachment points. Once the vent wing window is unscrewed, unlatch it and remove it. Store it alongside your main window.

==== Vent Wing Seal Removal ====
Since I was replacing the vent wing seal, I simply started tugging on it to get it out of its position. I used a knife to cut away pieces of it at a time, which made the process easier.

==== Vent Wing Guidepost Removal ====
Here comes the first surprise of the process - the vertical guidepost is attached at two points, and has a triangular wedge of aluminum attached to it that the wing seals attach to, so the wing seals must be removed prior to removing the guidepost.

At the top of the vertical guide channel, there is a small philips head screw on the outer rim of the door, probably hidden by door weatherstripping. Peel back the weatherstripping, and unscrew the philips head screw. At the bottom of the guidepost is a 10mm bolt (probably beneath the plastic weather barrier on the door - either cut a notch in the plastic barrier or pull back the barrier from the top); unbolt this.

The guidepost and wing seal support frame can then be pulled slightly down and towards the back of the door. Look into the door hollow, and note the bracket at the bottom of the guidepost. I had the best luck removing the guidepost and bracket just behind the front-most set of clips, twisting it slightly to get out through the slot where the window lived.

Once the guidepost is out, simply pull out the felt in the channel.

You're now ready to reinstall everything.

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T01:51:01Z

MariusStrom: Overview, link to BD.

I'll describe the process I used to replace my window seals on my 1988 Vanagon Westfalia. The process should be substantially similar on all other Vanagons, but I'll denote where differences may occur. This guide assumes you're installing the "euro" look seals that do not have the chrome trim components.

Prior to starting this process, you should order the seal sets from your favorite Vanagon vendor. The full set for each door includes:
* Vent Wing Seal
* Upper/Rear Guide
* Inner Scraper
* Outer Scraper
* Guidepost Felt

Bus Depot has a great [http://www.busdepot.com/details/vanagonrubber.jsp diagram] that explains the window seals.

Set aside about three hours each window if this is the first time you're doing this. Once you've done one window, the second will probably take a bit less time.

== Required Tools & Parts ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==
Removing the door panel is a simple process that can be done in about 5 minutes. On my Westfalia, I have power windows, but not power locks. Those with power locks may differ slightly.

Before starting, reattach the window crank and roll down the window. We'll remove the window once most of the main seals are out.

== Removing Old Window Seals ==
The upper/rear window seal simply pulls out. When it was first installed, it was likely glued in place, but the glue is likely completely useless at this point.

The inner/outer window scrapers pull straight up and out. Beware of the 6 clips per door (3 per scraper), as these may fall into the door. Should they fall into the door, simply retrieve them (since the panel/trim has been removed, it's easy) and place the clips back into their holes.

At this point, your main window should be sitting loosely in its channel.

=== Removing the Main Window ===
Carefully roll the window up, making sure that you guide it carefully using the front guide (as you've removed all the others). Roll the window down slightly until you can see a 10mm bolt through a hole in the door metal, and use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the window to its channel. Once this is done, you can lift the window and tilt it up and out of the door. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the window, and store it someplace safe.

=== Vent Wing Window Removal ===
==== Vent Wing Window Removal ====
Unscrew the two torx screws holding the vent wing window to the attachment points. Once the vent wing window is unscrewed, unlatch it and remove it. Store it alongside your main window.

==== Vent Wing Seal Removal ====
Since I was replacing the vent wing seal, I simply started tugging on it to get it out of its position. I used a knife to cut away pieces of it at a time, which made the process easier.

==== Vent Wing Guidepost Removal ====
Here comes the first surprise of the process - the vertical guidepost is attached at two points, and has a triangular wedge of aluminum attached to it that the wing seals attach to, so the wing seals must be removed prior to removing the guidepost.

At the top of the vertical guide channel, there is a small philips head screw on the outer rim of the door, probably hidden by door weatherstripping. Peel back the weatherstripping, and unscrew the philips head screw. At the bottom of the guidepost is a 10mm bolt (probably beneath the plastic weather barrier on the door - either cut a notch in the plastic barrier or pull back the barrier from the top); unbolt this.

The guidepost and wing seal support frame can then be pulled slightly down and towards the back of the door. Look into the door hollow, and note the bracket at the bottom of the guidepost. I had the best luck removing the guidepost and bracket just behind the front-most set of clips, twisting it slightly to get out through the slot where the window lived.

Once the guidepost is out, simply pull out the felt in the channel.

You're now ready to reinstall everything.

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T01:45:17Z

MariusStrom: /* Required Tools */ Re-header

== Required Tools & Parts ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==
Removing the door panel is a simple process that can be done in about 5 minutes. On my Westfalia, I have power windows, but not power locks. Those with power locks may differ slightly.

Before starting, reattach the window crank and roll down the window. We'll remove the window once most of the main seals are out.

== Removing Old Window Seals ==
The upper/rear window seal simply pulls out. When it was first installed, it was likely glued in place, but the glue is likely completely useless at this point.

The inner/outer window scrapers pull straight up and out. Beware of the 6 clips per door (3 per scraper), as these may fall into the door. Should they fall into the door, simply retrieve them (since the panel/trim has been removed, it's easy) and place the clips back into their holes.

At this point, your main window should be sitting loosely in its channel.

=== Removing the Main Window ===
Carefully roll the window up, making sure that you guide it carefully using the front guide (as you've removed all the others). Roll the window down slightly until you can see a 10mm bolt through a hole in the door metal, and use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the window to its channel. Once this is done, you can lift the window and tilt it up and out of the door. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the window, and store it someplace safe.

=== Wing Window Removal ===
==== Wing Window Removal ====
Unscrew the two torx screws holding the wing window to the attachment points. Once the wing is unscrewed, unlatch it and remove it. Store it alongside your main window.

==== Wing Seal Removal ====
Since I was replacing the wing seal, I simply started tugging on it to get it out of its position. I used a knife to cut away pieces of it at a time, which made the process easier.

==== Wing Guidepost Removal ====
Here comes the first surprise of the process - the vertical guidepost is attached at two points, and has a triangular wedge of aluminum attached to it that the wing seals attach to, so the wing seals must be removed prior to removing the guidepost.

At the top of the vertical guide channel, there is a small philips head screw on the outer rim of the door, probably hidden by door weatherstripping. Peel back the weatherstripping, and unscrew the philips head screw. At the bottom of the guidepost is a 10mm bolt (probably beneath the plastic weather barrier on the door - either cut a notch in the plastic barrier or pull back the barrier from the top); unbolt this.

The guidepost and wing seal support frame can then be pulled slightly down and towards the back of the door. Look into the door hollow, and note the bracket at the bottom of the guidepost. I had the best luck removing the guidepost and bracket just behind the front-most set of clips, twisting it slightly to get out through the window hole.

Once the guidepost is out, simply pull out the felt in the channel.

You're now ready to reinstall everything.

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T01:44:47Z

MariusStrom: /* Removing Old Window Seals */ Removal details.

== Required Tools ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==
Removing the door panel is a simple process that can be done in about 5 minutes. On my Westfalia, I have power windows, but not power locks. Those with power locks may differ slightly.

Before starting, reattach the window crank and roll down the window. We'll remove the window once most of the main seals are out.

== Removing Old Window Seals ==
The upper/rear window seal simply pulls out. When it was first installed, it was likely glued in place, but the glue is likely completely useless at this point.

The inner/outer window scrapers pull straight up and out. Beware of the 6 clips per door (3 per scraper), as these may fall into the door. Should they fall into the door, simply retrieve them (since the panel/trim has been removed, it's easy) and place the clips back into their holes.

At this point, your main window should be sitting loosely in its channel.

=== Removing the Main Window ===
Carefully roll the window up, making sure that you guide it carefully using the front guide (as you've removed all the others). Roll the window down slightly until you can see a 10mm bolt through a hole in the door metal, and use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the window to its channel. Once this is done, you can lift the window and tilt it up and out of the door. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the window, and store it someplace safe.

=== Wing Window Removal ===
==== Wing Window Removal ====
Unscrew the two torx screws holding the wing window to the attachment points. Once the wing is unscrewed, unlatch it and remove it. Store it alongside your main window.

==== Wing Seal Removal ====
Since I was replacing the wing seal, I simply started tugging on it to get it out of its position. I used a knife to cut away pieces of it at a time, which made the process easier.

==== Wing Guidepost Removal ====
Here comes the first surprise of the process - the vertical guidepost is attached at two points, and has a triangular wedge of aluminum attached to it that the wing seals attach to, so the wing seals must be removed prior to removing the guidepost.

At the top of the vertical guide channel, there is a small philips head screw on the outer rim of the door, probably hidden by door weatherstripping. Peel back the weatherstripping, and unscrew the philips head screw. At the bottom of the guidepost is a 10mm bolt (probably beneath the plastic weather barrier on the door - either cut a notch in the plastic barrier or pull back the barrier from the top); unbolt this.

The guidepost and wing seal support frame can then be pulled slightly down and towards the back of the door. Look into the door hollow, and note the bracket at the bottom of the guidepost. I had the best luck removing the guidepost and bracket just behind the front-most set of clips, twisting it slightly to get out through the window hole.

Once the guidepost is out, simply pull out the felt in the channel.

You're now ready to reinstall everything.

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T01:31:23Z

MariusStrom: /* Removing the Door Panel */

Replacing window seals

2010-06-27T01:27:52Z

MariusStrom: Create skeleton, will complete in the next few days :)

== Required Tools ==
* Philips Head Screwdriver
* Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
* 10mm Socket
* Hacksaw
* Scissors
* Knife
* Thread Lock (Blue)

== Removing the Door Panel ==

== Removing Old Window Seals ==

=== Wing Window Removal ===

=== Main Window Seals ===

=== Removing the Main Window ===

=== Removing the Wing Window ===

==== Wing Window Removal ====

==== Wing Seal Removal ====

==== Wing Guidepost Removal ====

== Reinstalling the Seals ==

=== Wing Seals and Window ===

=== Main Window Seals and Window ===

=== Reinstalling the Door Panel ===

[[Category:Maintenance]] [[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Fix floppy mirror

2010-06-10T07:15:35Z

MariusStrom: Reorganize and update citations.

== Repair / Refurb Method<ref>Stebbins, Malcom (2006-11-02). [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;L=vanagon&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;P=R4385 "Mirrors Floppy Fix"]. [http://gerry.vanagon.com/archives/vanagon.html VANAGON Mailing List Archives]. Retrieved 2010-06-10.</ref> ==

I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:

#remove mirrors.
#unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, & the spring.
#soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.
#use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).
#use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.
#IMPORTANT: lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil)
#maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)
#re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.

== Rubber Washer Method ==

Another popular fix for floppy mirror syndrome is the insertion of a thin rubber washer in the ball and socket joint. Disassemble as above, but but add a rubber washer between the "ball" of the mirror mount and the "socket" of the mirror arm.<ref>HerrBGone (2006-03-15). [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1355527#1355527 "Vanagon 'floppy mirror syndrome' CURED!"]. [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=20 TheSamba]. Retrieved 2010-06-10.</ref> 

== References ==

<references />

[[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Workarounds]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Delay dim interior lights

2010-06-04T02:49:14Z

MariusStrom: Re-adding captions

== Installing a delay dim interior light in driver's side ==

Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s Golf/Jetta Carat/Wolfsburg models, looks like standard Vanagon interior light with some additional circuitry, (VW part number, 191947111 “interior light with delayed switch-off”). Get it with the connector, cut the wires on the donor about 4 inches long.

Stock driver's side interior light pries out. Cut the wires about 2" from light.

Very simple splicing: 2 red wires (power) on van to the light’s 2 reds, the 2 brown wires on van (ground) to matching 2 on the light, and the brown with white stripe on van (switched ground, door switch) to matching wire. Pictures below show butt connecters used.

Reinstall light. Its about a 6-8 second delay after the last door closes.

The bonus is that the delay works on all the lights and all the doors, slider, back hatch, pass. door (if you have door switches on slider and back hatch). Yup, just by installing that one light at driver’s position.

[[Image:Img 1064.jpg|thumb|left|200px|View of circuitry]]

[[Image:Img 1062.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Light]]

[[Image:Img 1061.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Connections]]

[[Category:Electrical]]

Headlight Relay Install

2010-06-03T17:25:26Z

MariusStrom: Merge categories

1980 -1985 Vanagons

Parts Needed:

*2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface.

*8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire

*2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B

*1 - double terminal end extender

*8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow

*8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white

*16" - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red

*24" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown

*2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire

*6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.

 

 Installation Procedure for 1980 - 1985 Vanagons

New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed. Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits. Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.

 

*12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.
*12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.
*12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.
*14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.
*14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.
*14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.

 Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights. Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse. Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8" red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal. Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays.

NOTE - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.

Next, take two 12" 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends. Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket. While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector. If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out. Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block. This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and low beam headlamp fuses, #3 & #4 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86. Take the 8" yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.

 

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 & #6 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86. Take the 8" white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.

Now, push the relays into the relay sockets. Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.

Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power !

If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out. If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps. Use the next size higher amperage fuse. Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.

Ken Lewis write up [http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/upgrades/headlight-relay/index.htm here]

Alistair Bell's diagram of his install on an '82 diesel westy. Separate power feed line added in this case.

 

[[Image:Lightcircuit.jpg]]
[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Upgrades]]

Fuse panel 1986 G and M Connectors

2010-06-03T17:25:01Z

MariusStrom: Merge categories

Fuse panel information... the start of a collection.

“G” and “M” connectors on ’86 fuse panel

 The group of (mostly unused) spade connectors on back of panel have some interesting properties, especially G10. There is a diagram in the Bentley Manual illustrating the terminals, and they are number on the fuse panel itself. Here is what I decoded, on an 1986 Syncro GL.  

G1 – X bus controlled power, fused through S12 (20A) G2 – #15 ignition switched power fused through S18 (10A) G3 – X bus controlled power, fused through S12 (20A) G4 – D+ alternator trigger circuit via alt. led light G5 – #15 ignition switched power fused through S18 (10A) G6 – dead end G7 – power when headlights on G8 – dimmer controlled dash light power G9 – license plate lights power fused through S20 (10A) G10 – power when windshield wipers run

and the M connections close by:

M1 – connected to G7 M2 – power with lowbeams

[[Category:Electrical]]

Delay dim interior lights

2010-06-03T17:24:43Z

MariusStrom: Merge categories

== Installing a delay dim interior light in driver's side ==

Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s Golf/Jetta Carat/Wolfsburg models, looks like standard Vanagon interior light with some additional circuitry, (VW part number, 191947111 “interior light with delayed switch-off”). Get it with the connector, cut the wires on the donor about 4 inches long.

Stock driver's side interior light pries out. Cut the wires about 2" from light.

Very simple splicing: 2 red wires (power) on van to the light’s 2 reds, the 2 brown wires on van (ground) to matching 2 on the light, and the brown with white stripe on van (switched ground, door switch) to matching wire. Pictures below show butt connecters used.

Reinstall light. Its about a 6-8 second delay after the last door closes.

The bonus is that the delay works on all the lights and all the doors, slider, back hatch, pass. door (if you have door switches on slider and back hatch). Yup, just by installing that one light at driver’s position.

[[Image:Img 1064.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Image:Img 1062.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Image:Img 1061.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Category:Electrical]]

Solving wiring diagrams -- a technique

2010-06-03T17:23:57Z

MariusStrom: Add categories

In understanding Vanagon (or any other) wiring diagrams there is a
not-so-little trick that will make it vastly easier to figure out
what's really going on in a circuit. Before you can do this of
course you have to be familiar with Bentley 97.3-97.6. so the
diagrams make any sense at all.

The trick is this: First copy the page in question (an enlarged copy can be helpful
because the wires are quite close together in the original pictures) so you won't
wreck the original if you mess up somewhere. Get yourself an
assortment of colored pencils/markers, at least five or six including brown
and red. Then take a look at
http://picasaweb.google.com/dbeierl/FiguringOutVanagonWiringDiagrams#
for a working example of how it's done. You may want to keep it open
to refer to or make a color print of it to use the first time or two
you do this.

Start by locating the grounds. Since this is a physical schematic
some of them may originate far away from where you're looking even if
it would be easier to understand if they simply drew all of them
straight down to line at the bottom line of the page, which is
chassis ground. Every terminal labeled as 31 is a ground. Every
ground you find, draw a brown line next to the wiring for its whole
length. For switched grounds I recommend a dashed line instead of
solid upstream of the switch.

Then look for the +12 supply wires and color them red. You may well
want to use different colors for unswitched (terminal 30), switched
by ignition (terminal 15), and switched by the load reduction relay
(X-terminal on ignition switch operates it; power upstream is 30 at
the relay, downstream (switched) is 87 like all relay
outputs. Again, power that's switched downstream should use a dashed
line downstream of the switch.

Now pick a wire and figure out what it does. Follow it off the page
if necessary and label where it goes on your drawing. If you can't
figure it out, pick another wire. As soon as you know what it does,
label it as such then pick a color for it and draw solid or dashed
line as appropriate. If a single wire does multiple things, as in
the circuit from 53e at the motor up to the switch, down to the relay
and thence to the motor 53 terminal, use multiple solid or dashed
lines as appropriate (Note: the pink wire should be dotted for its
entire length and there should also be a brown dotted line for the
whole length of that circuit. Can you discover why? Answers on
request. Hint: I missed one of the functions of the auto-park switch).

Keep on doing this for wire after wire until you understand them all
(or are certain you understand enough of them, which may or may not
be true). Each wire you figure out makes the rest easier, and the
colored lines take away the visual anonymity of Joe Random
Black-line-on-the-page. Now you can follow the circuit around and
find out where a particular problem might (or must) lie as well as
where it cannot.

This is the second time I figured out this particular wiper
circuit. The first time I forgot this trick I learned thirty years
ago, and it took me over an hour. This time I remembered, and it
took about ten minutes after I found the colored pencils and
photographed the page. And I was easily (but not in ten minutes)
able to establish that the relay cannot possibly be correct as drawn
(since at some point it would hook +12 directly to ground) and how it
would actually have to be (which happens to coincide with the diagram
molded into the side of the actual 19 relay, but I didn't know that
at the time. I definitely did *not* figure that part out the other time.

Adds Roger: "Once you learn these diagrams, you can troubleshoot any circuit easily, or do a conversion. Many of the color codes for Vanagon are the same for Jetta , Golf etc."

Originally posted on the vanagon mailing list by David Beierl with additions from response by Robert Keezer

[[Category:diagnostic_tips]][[category:understanding_bentley]][[Category:Electrical]][[Category:Wiring]]

User talk:Jbange

2010-06-03T07:49:49Z

MariusStrom: Inquire about 025 121 115

Hi [[User:Jbange|Jbange]] - I was curious what you intended to do with [[025 121 115]]. If you're planning to build a parts lookup template - excellent! However, if it was just a test page, I'd like to delete it. Please advise. --[[User:MariusStrom|mariusstrom]] 07:49, 3 June 2010 (UTC)

Solicit content

2010-06-03T07:47:53Z

MariusStrom: Categorize

==Suggested text for soliciting content for the wiki==

Hi,
I'm writing to ask you if I can post this information on the VanagonWiki.

VanagonWiki.net is a community-created volunteer project to create, record and organize the best Vanagon-related information available to benefit the community of owners and lovers of these fine Volkswagen vehicles. You can learn more about our site at [http://www.vanagonwiki.net| http://www.vanagonwiki.net].

Of course we would properly attribute this information to you and post a Universal Resource Locator (URL) pointing to the original source location. All information posted to the VanagonWiki is licensed for re-use and remixing under Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share-Alike license to ensure this information isn't commercialized by anybody but you. You can learn more about this license here: [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/| http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/].

May I have your permission to use this material? If you like, you may contribute this material yourself directly to VanagonWiki. Anybody is welcome to participate; just ask me how.

[[Category:Administrative]]

Remove dash

2010-06-03T07:47:07Z

MariusStrom: Categorize

==How to remove the dash==
I looked at several references when I did this. One of the best is [http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm BenT's] photo-with-caption version. For a very concise textual list (might be most useful to someone who has done it but just wants a refresher), you can see the vanagonaut [http://www.vanagonauts.com/%5b70.5-%5dInstrument-Panel---Dashboard-(T-J-Hannink)117.htm btdt] on it.
===Disconnect the battery===
Any major work you do on the car should, by default, be preceded by disconnecting the ground strap (the thing connected to the negative post) on the battery.
===Pull the instrument cluster===
Sit in the driver's seat and reach your hands to the back of the little hood thingy that's on top of the instruments. There are finger holes back there. Put your fingers in the holes and pull upward and toward you. It is likely to come off really easily. If it hangs up, some people recommend [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4568788 whacking it lightly on the bottom front corner or side] with the palm of your hand. It would be good to have a picture of what it looks like when it's out so you know what is hanging up and how to flex it to help.

===Remove heater knobs and faceplate===
The switch for the fan and the heater levers "just" pull off. I have "just" in quotation marks because, when I did it, it was really difficult on three of the levers. I put a screwdriver down the instrument cluster hole and pushed on the lever covers with one hand while pulling with the other hand to get them off.

The faceplate for the heater sliders is connected at the top right and bottom left by round plastic posts. I would pull this from the top right and bottom left corners to avoid breaking it. In my case, it pushed out accidentally when I was taking off the heater slider knobs.

There are two screws visible on each side of this opening that have to come out, they hold the lever assembly to the dash.

If you look down through the hole that the instrument cluster left, up near the top on the passenger side you'll see a third screw that also holds the lever assembly. It needs to come out, too.

The light that illuminated the slider faceplate needs to be unplugged, have the wire pulled out the hole, and then plugged back in so you know where it goes :). I marked the light and the hole with the same letter (I'm using little paper tabs taped to the components to keep track of what needs to be connected back where) so I would know which hole it went through.

===Remove radio===
I didn't have a radio, I don't know how to do this :).

===Unplug cigarette lighter socket===
Reach through the radio hole, pull the wiring harness off the back of the lighter socket, and also the light bulb that illuminates it. I marked them with the same letter to remember they go together. I should probably mark the socket too.

===Remove the main dash screws===
There are ten screws that hold the dash to the body. Remove all of them. Be careful not to remove the large screws that hold the wipers in place. You can see that the dash has cutouts to avoid these so that those screws can remain on when you remove the dash.

(Note--You do not necessarily need to do this at this point, people remove them at different points in the process. YMMV.

===Drop the steering column===
There is a roughly cylindrically-shaped plastic piece that goes down the length of the column that comes between the driver and the steering column and all the wires that run along it. It has two screws near the top (very easy to find, on either side of the column). There is also a metal clip holding this cylindrical piece to the steering column, so after you get the screws out you just have to tug a bit to get it to let go.

There are 4-5 wiring harnesses here. All of them are shaped differently, you can just pull them all, there's only one way for each to reattach.

Now to take off the steering wheel:

Pry off the "horn button" (the big thing you press to sound the horn). You just pull it off (my PO had bypassed the horn so there probably should be two wires connected to that piece via spade connectors, but they were already taken off in my case). Under here you will see a big 24mm nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column. Remove that nut and pull off the steering wheel.

There are four bolts that hold the steering column up. Two have an anti-theft head (cone shaped). The idea is to make it a pain to get them off. You can use vise-grips or whatever. I was able to grab them with the rounded part of slip-joint pliers. Many people just replace them with real bolts when they reassemble. The other two bolts are 13mm. Take these out and let the steering column drop.

When I did this, at some point the whole outer part of the assembly turned to the right. I haven't put it back together yet, so I don't know what you have to do about that. Putting this in here so I remember to note it and say what it turned out to be. Maybe the lock thing where the steering wheel locks until you turn the ignition? I don't know.

===Pull the panel in front of the shifter===

There is a trapezoid shaped pane between the shifter and the front of the vehicle. It deflects air down to the driver and passenger feet. There are two slots in it on the front face somewhat close to the top. Put your hands, palm up, into these slots. The tabs that need to be released are now near your index fingers, so that's where to apply the most force. Pull straight back to the back of the van.

===Pull heater channels===

The ducts that channel the heat/fresh air/whatever slide off easily, but probably a little more easily if you do it before you start trying to pull the dash at the end. Just use the vents as a guide, reach behind the vent and pull the duct thing off.

===Incomplete===
I'm writing this as I do the removal :).

=== Pull out the dash ===

I found that it was kind of hung on the brackets that the anti-theft bolt things attached to. I got the bottom of it wiggled off of those first and then it wasn't too terrible after that. I had to pull pretty hard but I couldn't see what was causing the resistance.

[[Category:Remove and Replace]]

Prop shaft alignment

2010-06-03T07:46:25Z

MariusStrom: Categorize and copy-edit.

This is an outline of procedure to reduce or eliminate syncro propeller shaft (drive shaft) vibrations.

== Symptoms ==
Often these vibrations occur at road speeds of around 50-70 kph (30-45 mph).

== Prerequisites ==
Assumption is made that the propeller shaft is not bent or otherwise damaged, and that rear transmission and front differential are in good working order. Also this procedure is geared towards the stock VW propeller shaft, not after market shafts with slip joints, double cardan joints, etc.

== Procedures ==
*Make sure the u-joints have no play at all. Try and move the bearing cups and yokes. The yokes should be snug and smooth moving.
*If u-joints need replacing due to worn or frozen bearings, then Precision brand, part #813 will fit if grease nipple port is plugged with short bolt.
*Make sure the internal bushings at guibo end (rubber damper end) are not worn out. U-joint yoke should be a tight fit with no slop (and shaft greased). If bushings and or yoke shaft worn, then take to machinist to fit new bronze (or Oilite) bushings and have yoke shaft machined to remove wear and to fit. There are two bushings, one at the end and one deeper inside driveshaft. They can be removed with a 1" tap. In the UK there is a [http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement replacement poly bushing] available for the end bushing.
*Guibo should be intact with no rips, tears, rubber degradation, and bolted to proper torque.
*Measure flange angles on both trans and front diff; they should be equal and probably best if 4 degrees from vertical or less. I *believe* the stock set up is having flange faces angled down at 4 degrees or less. Don't shim to have flanges perfectly vertical. The joints should have some angle on them to allow the needle bearings to wear evenly.
*Adjust front diff (or trans if needed) with shim(s). For example, add shims to front diff. front mount to make input flange face down more.
*Measure lateral alignment and adjust transmission and or front diff to align, centre on centre.
*Recheck flange angles.

Install propeller shaft and test drive. If vibrations persist, try loosening the front differential mounting bolts a bit and drive for a few miles. This may allow the front differential to align itself to shaft. Tighten bolts back up.

== References ==
* [http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/ Herman's Blog] with propshaft info
* [http://shufti.wordpress.com/ Another blog] with alignment and propshaft info (author's blog)
* [http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement Link] to polybushing

[[Category:Syncro]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

New owner checklist

2010-06-03T07:40:12Z

MariusStrom: Categorize!

Every new Vanagon owner should do a series of things upon acquiring a new Vanagon, no matter what the year or style. This list is a recommended set of items.

== Documentation ==
* Review previous owner's maintenance records
** Consider tracking maintenance history in a spreadsheet
* Acquire a [[Bentley manual|Bentley]] repair manual appropriate for your year of Vanagon

== Component Replacement ==
* '''Replace all [http://benplace.com/fuel_line.htm fuel lines] in the car!'''
* Consider replacing [[Vacuum system|vacuum lines]]

== Component Inspections ==
* Inspect all [[Cooling system|coolant hoses]] and look for leaks around heater cores
* Check [[Electrical system|battery]] for proper voltage
* Inspect all body seams, undercarriage and floor areas for rust

== Fluid Flushes ==
* Flush [[Cooling system|coolant]] with a phosphate-free/distilled water mixture (50/50)
* Flush brake fluid
* Flush power steering fluid
* Change the [[Recommended oil types|oil]]
* Change the transmission fluid
* Refill the wiper reservoirs front and rear

[[Category:Buying a Vanagon]]

List of regional clubs

2010-06-03T07:39:28Z

MariusStrom: Categorize!

List of parts suppliers

2010-06-03T07:39:05Z

MariusStrom: Categorize!

''Note: VanagonWiki and its administrators do not receive anything in return for the following links, nor do we guarantee success with any of these suppliers. These are purely commonly used providers of Vanagon- and Westfalia-specific parts, and are in purely alphabetical order (not indicative of any preference). ''

* [http://www.busdepot.com/ Bus Depot]
* [http://germansupply.com/home/customer/home.php German Supply]
* [http://www.gowesty.com/ Go Westy]
* [http://www.oeveedub.com/ OE Vee Dub]
* [http://www.van-cafe.com/ Van Cafe]
* [http://www.vanagain.com/ Van Again]
* [http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/ Volkswagen Classic Parts]

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Headlight Relay Install

2010-06-03T07:35:52Z

MariusStrom: Categorizing!

Fix floppy mirror

2010-06-03T07:35:06Z

MariusStrom: Categorizing

I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:

 

#remove mirrors.
#unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, & the spring.
#soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.
#use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).
#use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.
#IMPORTANT: lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil)
#maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)
#re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.

 As I said, I've done this will 3 sets in the past month and I offered a set to my mechanic FREE just for the parts swap. He nearly fell over in shock of a customer making this offer TO him.

 I can post photos if anyone desires. I will also offer to sell a set re-vitalized of mirrors to anyone who is willing to sent their Dumbo mirrors to me in return.

 I do believe it was Chris Turner who suggested this mirror 'fix'. If it was not Chris, then my appologies to the correct author.

Malcolm (Halifax, NS)

 

Originally posted to the vanagon list: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&L=vanagon&P=R4385]

[[Category:Remove and Replace]]
[[Category:Workarounds]]
[[Category:Repairs]]

Delay dim interior lights

2010-06-02T06:48:22Z

MariusStrom: Categorize and clean-up

== Installing a delay dim interior light in driver's side ==

Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s Golf/Jetta Carat/Wolfsburg models, looks like standard Vanagon interior light with some additional circuitry, (VW part number, 191947111 “interior light with delayed switch-off”). Get it with the connector, cut the wires on the donor about 4 inches long.

Stock driver's side interior light pries out. Cut the wires about 2" from light.

Very simple splicing: 2 red wires (power) on van to the light’s 2 reds, the 2 brown wires on van (ground) to matching 2 on the light, and the brown with white stripe on van (switched ground, door switch) to matching wire. Pictures below show butt connecters used.

Reinstall light. Its about a 6-8 second delay after the last door closes.

The bonus is that the delay works on all the lights and all the doors, slider, back hatch, pass. door (if you have door switches on slider and back hatch). Yup, just by installing that one light at driver’s position.

[[Image:Img 1064.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Image:Img 1062.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Image:Img 1061.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]

[[Category:Electronics]]

Fuse panel 1986 G and M Connectors

2010-06-02T06:44:36Z

MariusStrom: Applied category Electronics

Bolt tightening schedule

2010-05-28T05:47:57Z

MariusStrom: Categorize

This page will provide references to all bolts that need tightening per manufacturer's specification.

== Transmission ==

=== Automatic Transmission ===

*Oil Pan - 20 Nm (14 ft. lb.)<ref name="autotranny">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 38.25</ref>
*Oil Strainer Cover - 3 Nm (26 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />
*Valve Body - 4 Nm (35 in. lb.)<ref name="autotranny" />

=== Differential (Automatic Transmission) ===

*Oil Pan - 10 Nm (7 ft. lb.)<ref name="autodiff">Bentley Publishers, "Official Factory Repair Manual": 39.50</ref>
**Note: tighten diagonally, retorque twice more after intervals of 5 minutes

 

== References ==

<references />

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Bolt tightening schedule

2010-05-28T05:46:16Z

MariusStrom: moved Bolt tightening to Bolt tightening schedule: more logical name

Bolt tightening

2010-05-28T05:46:16Z

MariusStrom: moved Bolt tightening to Bolt tightening schedule: more logical name

#REDIRECT [[Bolt tightening schedule]]

Bolt tightening schedule

2010-05-28T05:46:02Z

MariusStrom: Create page

MediaWiki talk:Sidebar

2010-05-17T05:02:37Z

MariusStrom: indent

I'd love to see a link to Browse Categories here. Seems only wiki admin can edit that. -- [[User:Elpedro]]

:Hi, [[User:Elpedro]]. I added a link to Browse Categories on the sidebar. Hopefully that's what you were looking for. --[[User:MariusStrom|'''mariusstrom''']] 05:02, 17 May 2010 (UTC)

MediaWiki talk:Sidebar

2010-05-17T05:02:15Z

MariusStrom: Response to Elpedro

I'd love to see a link to Browse Categories here. Seems only wiki admin can edit that. -- [[User:Elpedro]]

Hi, [[User:Elpedro]]. I added a link to Browse Categories on the sidebar. Hopefully that's what you were looking for. --[[User:MariusStrom|mariusstrom]] 05:02, 17 May 2010 (UTC)

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-17T05:00:04Z

MariusStrom: Adding categories link

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-17T03:44:06Z

MariusStrom: Finally getting the interwiki links right.

Help:Contents

2010-05-17T03:43:13Z

MariusStrom: Redirected page to mediawikiwiki:Help:Contents

#REDIRECT [[mediawikiwiki:Help:Contents]]

Help:Contents

2010-05-17T03:24:49Z

MariusStrom: Create help page; redirect to mediawiki help

#REDIRECT [[mw:Help:Contents]]

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-17T03:23:36Z

MariusStrom: Reverted edits by MariusStrom (Talk) to last revision by WikiSysop

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-17T03:22:46Z

MariusStrom:

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-17T03:22:27Z

MariusStrom: Redirect help to MediaWiki's help

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-14T16:45:26Z

MariusStrom:

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2010-05-14T16:45:09Z

MariusStrom: testing