Vanagon Wiki - User contributions [en]

History

2010-06-30T15:00:41Z

Albell:

'''Note: This page is based on the Wikipedia T3 Article.<ref>[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Type_2_(T3) Volkswagen Type 2 (T3)]</ref>'''

The '''Volkswagen Type 2 (T3)''' was the third generation of the Volkswagen Transporter. It was generally known as the '''Transporter''' or '''Caravelle''' in Europe, and to some in the [[wikipedia:United%20Kingdom|United Kingdom]] and [[wikipedia:Ireland|Ireland]] as the '''T25''', and as the '''Vanagon''' in the U.S. It was built from May 1979 until July 1992. It was the last of the [[wikipedia:RR%20layout|rear-engined]] Volkswagens. Compared to its predecessor, the [[wikipedia:Volkswagen%20Type%202|Volkswagen Type 2]], the T3 was larger and heavier, with square corners replacing the rounded edges of the older models.

== History ==

The T3 was built to be the modern successor to the [[wikipedia:Volkswagen%20Type%202|Volkswagen Type 2]]. The vehicle, unfortunately, was underpowered given its curb weight. Versions of the T3 produced in [[wikipedia:South%20Africa|South Africa]] from 1990 until 2002 featured an [[wikipedia:List%20of%20discontinued%20Volkswagen%20Group%20petrol%20engines|Audi]] [[wikipedia:Straight-five%20engine|five-cylinder engine]] which helped performance greatly. Installing engines from more powerful vehicles — including gasoline and [[wikipedia:Turbo%20diesel|Turbo diesel]] [[wikipedia:Inline-four%20engine|inline-four]] Volkswagens, Fords, Subarus, Audis, and Porsches — is a [[Conversions|solution]] pursued by some owners.

The predominant variant to the Transporter configuration, the [[Westfalia]] camper conversion, was available throughout the production of the T3. This option was quite popular, and included an array of creature comforts for a family to enjoy on a weekend outing including a pop up roof, refrigerator, sink, and stove.

Examples built between 1980 and 1985 are easily identified by round headlights and [[wikipedia:Chrome%20plating|chrome-plated]] [[wikipedia:Steel|steel]] bumpers with plastic end-caps. Air-cooled models (Produced from 1980 to mid-1983) lack the lower grill above the radiator of the water cooled models, except on models with factory air conditioning installed. 1986 Model year vehicles received several revisions, which included a more luxurious interior with a tachometer, more fabric choices, redesigned air conditioner, larger water cooled engine ("[[Wasserboxer]]") with a more advanced engine management system, and redesigned transmissions including an optional [[wikipedia:4motion|syncro]] [[wikipedia:Four-wheel%20drive|four-wheel drive]]. Exterior changes include rectangular headlights, which are probably the most notable change, and different paint options. [[wikipedia:Alloy%20wheel|Alloy wheels]], larger and squarer plastic bumpers with trim along the rocker panels were options, and standard equipment on Wolfsburg Edition vans. For 1990 and 1991 model years, a "Carat" trim level was available which included all available options (except [[Westfalia]] conversion).

All 1980 and some 1981 models had eight welded-in metal slats covering the engine ventilation passages behind the rear windows. Later models had black plastic 16-slat covers that slotted in at the top and screwed down at the bottom.

During the 1980s, the U.S. Army and Air Force in Germany used T3's as administrative (non-tactical) vehicles. In military use, the vehicle's nomenclature was "Light Truck, Commercial".

[[wikipedia:Porsche|Porsche]] has created a version called B32 in a limited edition. The van was equipped with 3.2 liter Carrera engine and was originally developed to support Porsche 959 involvement in Paris-Dakar race.

Oettinger has developed a 6 cylinders version called WBX6. The engine is derived from the "Wasserboxer" engine and has many common parts with it. The development of the engine was originally contracted to Oettinger by VW. Oettinger bought the rights when VW decided not to use it.

== Features ==

With the [[wikipedia:Internal%20combustion%20engine|engine]] and [[wikipedia:Transaxle|transaxle]] mounted very low in the back, the T3 had much larger [[wikipedia:Disc%20brake|disc brakes]] in the front, and [[wikipedia:Drum%20brake|drums]] in the rear. Axle weight is very nearly equal upon both the front and back ends of the vehicle. Unlike the [[wikipedia:Volkswagen%20Type%202|Type 2]] before it, the T3 was available with amenities such as power steering, air conditioning, power door locks, electrically controlled and heated mirrors, lighted vanity mirrors, and a light above the glove box (most of which were essentially standard equipment in later models).

The T3 air conditioning was, rather unconventionally, of the "hanging" type. That is, all components of the air conditioning system that are internal to the vehicle hang from the ceiling. The air conditioning housings are infamous for cracking and falling down after the vehicle has gotten older, and there were even recalls issued to address the problem.

Starting from the 1986 model year, there was available a greatly improved air conditioning system that not only does not suffer as badly from the cracking housings, but also does a better job of cooling the interior of the van on hot summer days. This later system features an "airliner" style plastic duct that runs the length of the vehicle in the center with adjustable outlets at set intervals, rather than cooling the entire rear section via a single bank of outlets facing aft above and behind the front seats.

The controls are above the sun visors in the front of the vehicle for both systems until the 1988 model year when they were moved to the dash. The air conditioning ductwork for the 1988 and later years was, arguably, a much more attractive color, being grey instead of beige. The grey color housings hold their color better than the beige, which tends to yellow considerably over a several year period.

This was one of the few vehicles ever in which the [[wikipedia:Automatic%20transmission|automatic transmission]] was tougher than the [[wikipedia:Manual%20transmission|manual transmission]], which was caused by the fact that, up until the 1990 model year, the third-fourth gear synchro slider hub was of a flawed design.<ref>http://www.longenterprises.com/remachined_sliders.htm</ref> This could result in cracking, or even breakage, causing the transmission to get stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. A new 3-4 hub design less susceptible to stress fractures was implemented sometime in late 1989, first showing up in early 1990 model year vehicles.

The automatic was a standard hydraulic three-speed unit, the same 090/010 unit as used in [[wikipedia:Audi|Audis]] of the era. These featured a cast aluminium alloy case for the transmission section, and a cast iron case for the final drive section.

The 091 manual transmission was a four-speed unit, featuring a lightweight aluminium alloy case.

The automatic features a 1.0 ratio top gear, while the manual features a 0.85 top gear.

The T3 has some unusual features, such as the fact that the brake master cylinder is inside the dashboard. The battery in gasoline-powered models is located under the passenger side front seat, to protect it from the elements. There is a compartment of slightly smaller size under the driver's side seat, for a second battery, which wasn't present except in the case of certain "[[Weekender]]" camper models.

The spare tire lies in a tray under the very front of the van (as the engine is in the back), just below the [[wikipedia:Radiator%20(engine%20cooling)|radiator]]. To get the spare out, one must undo a 19 mm bolt in the bottom of the front bumper, pull a small latch back, and swing the tray down, at some risk of severing fingers if they are caught between the metal tray and the pavement.<ref>Official Bentley manual for Volkswagen Vanagon</ref>

Overall, these vehicles have exceptionally well-built and strong chassis (frames) that are often found to be as good as new underneath, thus creating a platform with good scope for very long life if given even the minimum attention annually.

== Engines ==

Because of the engine placement, a T3 has nearly equal 50/50 weight distribution fore and aft.

=== Petrol/Gasoline ===

There were four general petrol engine variants between 1979 and 1991, with several sub-models. All were [[wikipedia:Overhead%20valve|overhead valve]] push-rod [[wikipedia:Flat%20engine|horizontally opposed]] four-cylinder engines. Available engine options differed between regions.

*'''Air-cooled (1979–1982)'''
**1.6 L (1584 cc) (50 bhp/37 kW) (Serial # CT) [[wikipedia:Air-cooled|Air-cooled]], single Solex 34 PICT-4 [[wikipedia:Carburetor|carburetor]], available on non-USA models
**2.0 L (1970 cc) (70 bhp/51 kW) (Serial # CU or CV) [[wikipedia:Air-cooled|Air-cooled]], twin Solex 34 PDSIT-2/3 [[wikipedia:Carburetor|carburetor]] or [[wikipedia:Fuel%20injected|fuel injected]] (Bosch L-Jetronic, USA models) [[Flat-4]] in the 1980 to 1983 1/2 models
*'''Water-cooled (1983 onwards)'''
**1.9 litre engines:
***1.9 L (1913 cc) (83 bhp) (Serial # DH) water-cooled (or "[[Wasserboxer]]") engine used for the 1983 1/2 to 1985 models, which used a [[wikipedia:Fuel%20injection|fuel injection]] system known as "Digijet" (Digital Jet-tronic)
***1.9 L (1913 cc) (59 bhp) (Serial # DF) 8.6:1 compression ratio, 34-PICT carburetor
***1.9 L (1913 cc) (76 bhp) (Serial # DG) 8.6:1 compression ratio, 2E3 or 2E4 carburetor
***1.9 L (1913 cc) (55 bhp) (Serial # EY) 7.5:1 compression ratio, 34-PICT carburetor
***1.9 L (1913 cc) (89 bhp) (Serial # GW) 8.6:1 compression ratio, Bosch Digijet electronic fuel injection
**2.1 Litre engines:
***2.1 L (2100 cc) (95 bhp) (Serial # MV) [[Wasserboxer]], used until the end of Vanagon importation into the US in 1991. This engine used a more advanced engine management system known as Bosch "Digifant I" which now digitally managed ignition timing as well as fuel delivery.
***2.1 L (2100 cc) (90 bhp) (Serial # SS) 9:1 compression ratio [[Wasserboxer]]
***2.1 L (2100 cc) (112 bhp) (Serial # DJ) 10:1 compression ratio, Digijet injection, only sold in European countries not requiring catalytic converter.

The [[Wasserboxer]] featured an aluminum case, cylinder heads, and pistons, and a forged steel crankshaft.

The Wasserboxer, as with all VW boxer engines, directly drives the camshaft via a small gear on the crankshaft, and a large one on the camshaft that makes direct contact, so there is no timing chain or belt to worry about. The entire mechanism is internal to the engine so there is no concern as long as the oil is changed regularly.

It also featured Heron, or "bowl-in-piston" type combustion chambers where the combustion takes place within the piston area, and not the cylinder head.

The Wasserboxer featured cast iron cylinder liners inserted into a water jacket with a "rubber lip" style head gasket, a design different from most vehicles. The top of the cylinder liners is pressed into a recessed cut-out in the cylinder heads and sealed with compressible metal rings to prevent leakage.

Some Wasserboxers were plagued by water jacket gasket failures due to several design problems. The alloy used for the construction of the cylinder head weakened when overheated, thus, when reaching temperatures over 90 °C, the metal composition would shrink and crack, allowing water from the cooling system to flow into the oil.

Engine failure was also a result of poorly placed sensors, corrosion in the cooling system, and many areas subjected to leaks.

The switch to water-cooling for the boxer engines was made abruptly mid-year in 1983 because VW could no longer make the air-cooled engines meet [[wikipedia:Emissions%20standard|emissions standards]]. (The previous generation T2, currently produced in Brazil, has been switched to water-cooled engines since December 23, 2005 in response to Brazil's emission laws; the powerplant used in the previous-generation T2 is an Audi inline four.) Water-cooled models can be distinguished by a second front grille.

=== Diesel engines ===

In contrast to the standard flat-4 gasoline engines, all [[wikipedia:Diesel%20engine|Diesel engine]] options were of an [[wikipedia:Straight%20engine|inline]] configuration.

*1.6 L (1588 cc) (48 bhp) (Serial # CS) Naturally aspirated Diesel inline 4, available in the US on 1982 models only.
*1.6 L (1588 cc) (70 bhp) (Serial # JX) Turbocharged inline 4.
*1.7 L (1700 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY) Natural aspirated inline 4.

A diesel variant of the T3 was also available and widely sold in some markets. Unfortunately the early models had a 1.6 L (1,588 cc) (48 hp) (Serial # CS) [[wikipedia:SOHC|SOHC]] Inline-four engine which rendered the van severely underpowered, with a top speed somewhere around 100 km/h (62 mph). This shortcoming was later corrected, however most likely for this reason in the North American market the diesel T3 was discontinued after three model years between 1981 and 1983. Later models received a diesel engine of the same displacement but turbocharged, which vastly improved driveability. Fuel economy of the diesel was significantly higher than that of the gasoline model, often approaching 30 mpg US.

== US model variations ==

There were several Vanagon models available in the US. Early models included:

*Vanagon, which featured [[wikipedia:Vinyl|Vinyl]] seats and a very spartan interior.
*Vanagon L, which had optional cloth seats, more upscale interior panels and an optional dashboard blower.
*Vanagon GL, which had the nicest amenities (mentioned above).

There were also [[Westfalia]] pop-top Camper Vanagons, with an integrated kitchen and bedding. Westfalia campers came in two variants, the standard model and the '[[Weekender]],' which lacked the propane stove, sink, and domestic refrigerator of the full 'camper' versions. A removable cabinet with a 12V cooler and a self-contained sink was an option for a Weekender.

Wolfsburg Edition "Weekender" models had two rear facing seats behind the front seats in place of a centre bench seat and a table that popped up from out of the wall. There also existed "Multivan" models, which had the Wolfsburg Edition trim and interior with rear-facing seats, but the Westfalia pop-top. All Wolfsburg Edition and camper van vehicles were specially converted for Volkswagen by the Westfalia factory, and it is these campers and converted vehicles that are still so desirable today, due to their undoubted design and build quality.

There were [[wikipedia:Four-wheel%20drive|four-wheel drive]] T3s that were branded by Volkswagen as "[[wikipedia:4motion|syncros]]". The manual [[wikipedia:Transmission%20(mechanics)|transmission]] in the T3 syncro had an extra-low-ratio 'G' or 'Gelände gear' for slow off-road use, thus giving the appearance of a five-speed transmission (Gelände = cross country). 'G', 1st and 2nd are often used off-road.

''(following section need revision and checking of stated facts)''

Syncros were manufactured in limited numbers from 1985 through 1992, with the four wheel drive system added by [[wikipedia:Steyr-Daimler-Puch|Steyr-Daimler-Puch]] works in Graz, Austria. With a short wheelbase and 48/52 front/rear weight distribution, these vehicles have surprisingly good off-road capabilities. They brought out 14 and 16-inch wheel models, with the 16 not being sold in the USA; the 16-inch has a 1" longer wheelbase, bigger wheel wells, stronger rear driveshafts, larger [[wikipedia:Constant-velocity%20joint|CV joints]], larger brakes all round, and some body stiffening (NB. 14" syncros are perfectly strong and stiff for heavy off-road work). The syncros all have extensive and strong underbody protection for the engine and transmissions in the form of skid plates and bars. The drivetrains (transmissions) suffer from their own issues; as the transmission and rear [[wikipedia:Differential%20(mechanical%20device)|final drive unit]] share the same oil, the standard differential housing is not that strong, the crown wheel and pinion are subject to premature failure if loads are carried and are very expensive to replace. Syncros could be supplied with optional [[wikipedia:Locking%20differentials|locking differentials]]; either front and rear, rear only or none at all depending on customer specifications and/or the country in which they were to be sold. The diff-locks help to prevent wheel slippage across an axle in off-road conditions, but don't change nor were intended to change the reliability of the transaxle or front differential. Diff locks are also considered a must for serious off-road work to overcome the vehicles limited axle articulation (measured by the [[wikipedia:Ramp%20travel%20index|Ramp Travel Index]]); they also give the T3 syncro a distinct edge in traction over many other off-road types, being easily switched on/off from the cab by the driver whilst on the move. During late production, they added oil deflection plates into the transmission to enable better oil distribution, and also the transmissions only like fully synthetic gear oil. These gear boxes are very expensive to rebuild, and difficult to get properly rebuilt so they last. Early in production, they came out with a decoupler unit on the transaxle output shaft to disengage the drive forward to the front diff from the gearbox. This was replaced during production with a viscous coupling unit in the front differential. Due to the excess load put on the boxes from the drive of the front wheels back to the box, the viscous unit is prone to failure due to a heavy work load. The provision for a decoupler is still in the gear housing, the decoupler unit can be expensive to buy and set up, but is an advantage when driving over the highway when combined with the viscous coupling for icy and off-road conditions.

Model years 1980 to 1985 had round sealed beam headlights. All subsequent models for North American and European markets had smaller square headlights, with the primary lights outboard and high beams inboard. Later models from South Africa returned to round headlight housings for both the primary headlights and high-beams, and the South African grille/headlight combination is a popular aftermarket accessory.

The T3 was replaced by the T4 (Eurovan) in the US market in 1993 (1992 saw no Volkswagen bus imported into the U.S. market, save custom campers sold by companies other than VW). Production of 2WD Caravelles continued until 2002, the last models having 2.6 5-cyl engines, deeper rear windows, larger ventilated disk-brakes and many other modifications, being considered the best multi-seat (9~11) taxi then available in the SA market. Toyota's now dominate that market.

Many believe that Volkswagen should have re-engined the T3 with modern power-plants, and developed and continued to improve the vehicles, because their last models are still considered one of the best packaged Day-Van, Multi-van and Campers even today. Just as the T3 4WD syncro was being phased out, the great boom in off-road capable vehicles began, which Volkswagen missed, despite bringing out a syncro version of their Eurovan T4 FWD vehicles (which were not a fully engineered off-roader).

Top-of-the-line [[Wolfsburg]] Edition [[Westfalia]] Campers, which had all options, were at the top of the price range. Syncro-equipped examples in exceptional condition can command up to $80,000 [[wikipedia:USD|USD]] today.

In addition to the camper models, a Carat trim level was available for 1990 and 1991 model years. This model included all options available for the Transporter configuration.

Some models had optional aluminum alloy star-shaped wheels, (which were available at extra expense). Most came with standard black steel wheels with plastic flying saucer-shaped wheel covers.

== References ==

<references />

Hi-Lift jack adapter

2010-06-25T05:15:41Z

Albell: Created page with ' To use a Hi-Lift type jack on the Vanagon's jack points you need to make some sort of adapter to allow the jack to clear the side panels of the van. There are a couple of w…'

 To use a Hi-Lift type jack on the Vanagon's jack points you need to make some sort of adapter to allow the jack to clear the side panels of the van. There are a couple of ways to do it. One way is to cut off a portion of the stock jack and weld it to some box section steel. The adapter is held in place onthe jack tongue via a 1/2″ SS bolt and Nylock nut. Here are some pictures of this and a dimensioned "drawing".

[[Image:Img 1125.jpg|thumb|right]][[Image:Img 1639.jpg|thumb|right]][[Image:Img 1633.jpg|thumb|right]]

Another approach is a simple steel rod with a couple of retainign rings welded on to one end, shown Gary Lee's [http://www.telusplanet.net/public/gary2a/rack/jack/jack.htm website.]

--[[User:Albell|Albell]] 05:15, 25 June 2010 (UTC)

File:Img 1639.jpg

2010-06-25T05:10:09Z

Albell: hi lift jack adapter

hi lift jack adapter

File:Img 1633.jpg

2010-06-25T04:59:59Z

Albell: hi lift jack adapter dimensioned

hi lift jack adapter dimensioned

File:Img 1125.jpg

2010-06-25T04:58:52Z

Albell: hi lift jack adapter on jack

hi lift jack adapter on jack

Lights Left On Buzzer 83/84

2010-06-25T04:45:45Z

Albell:

==  Headlights Left on Buzzer Modification ==

''This modification has been tested in Mr Squirrel's 1984 Westfalia, Mellow Yellow. Wiring differences between camper versions and standard version of Vanagons as well as changes made to the wiring over the years by Volkswagen and Previous Owners makes it essential that you don't trust any of the information here, and verify your own van's wiring before plunging in.'' 

Mr Squirrel is not as smart as he wishes he was and has found on more than one occasion that he forgot to turn off the lights. So he put together this warning buzzer. Here's how it goes: 

=== Identifying My Signals ===

I wanted to find an easy way to wire a buzzer into the van without cutting wires, which means I was limited to working on the fuse panel. So I hoped to find a pair of fuses that could power a small 12VDC buzzer when the ignition is off but the headlight switch is not.

With my trusty voltmeter, I built a "truth table" of fuse voltages, as shown here: 

{| style="text-align: center; width: 100%;" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"
|-
| colspan="6" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | CONDITION 
| colspan="12" rowspan="2" style="vertical-align: top;" | FUSE # 
|-
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | KEY 
| colspan="4" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | HEADLIGHT 
SWITCH 

|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | OFF 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | ON 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2-LO 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2-HI 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 3 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 4 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 5 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 6 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 7 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 8 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 9 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 10 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 11 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 12 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|}

 

''Truth Table for my 1984 Westfalia ONLY. Ignition Key is shown in OFF and ON positions, Headlight Switching is shown in four conditions: Main switch OFF (0), Main Switch set to middle, parking light position (1), Main switch set to ON (2) position and beams set to low, and with beams set to hi. Voltages on the fuses measured under all eight combinations, a "0" indicating no volts, a "1" indicating 12 volts. Build your own truth table for your vehicle before proceeding. ''

The condition for when I wanted the buzzer to sound was when the ignition was off, but the light switch NOT off. This is shown in the green section of the table. Next, I needed to find two fuses: one with power under these conditions, and second with no power under these conditions. If I could find such a pair then I could connect the buzzer between them. As can be seen, Fuses #1 and #2 are powered while Fuses #10, #11, #12 have no power in the green section. 

So I have my candidate fuses. 

=== Testing ===

Always disconnect the battery ground terminal before fussing around with the electrical bits. 

Using clip leads, I connected my buzzer's red "+" wire to Fuse #2, and the buzzer's black "-" wire to Fuse #12, reconnected the battery and played with the ignition and headlight switches and the buzzer indeed sounded only when the ignition was off but the lights were on. Perfect.

=== Installation ===

These instructions assume that you know how to drop the fuse panel and know how to work around the electrical bits. 

Parts I used:

*One buzzer. Radio Shack P/N 273-055A. David Beierl suggested this device. It's designed for 12V, and emits an annoying whine, kind of like Paul Simon.
*Two insulated push-on female quick-disconnect in .250 size, for 18-22 gauge wire. 
*Two .250 quick-disconnect adapters: single-female, dual-male, like Pico Wiring p/n 1595 as shown here: [http://picowiring.com/pdf/PICO-11.pdf http://picowiring.com/pdf/PICO-11.pdf]
*Bit of double-sided sticky tape. 
*Crimping tool.

Crimp insulated female quick disconnects to each of the buzzer's wires. 

Disconnect the battery and pull the fuse panel; work it around so  the backside is accessible. I had to remove Relay #19 to get to the rear of Fuse #12. 

On the rear of Fuse #12, I disconnect the black/yellow wire and install one of the adapters onto the now-unused tab. Push the black/yellow wire back on to one of the two male tabs on the adapter, and push the buzzer's black wire onto the other other tab on the adapter. 

On the rear of Fuse #2, disconnect the gray/red wire, install the other adapter, push the gray/red wire onto one of the two tabs, and push the buzzer's red wire onto the other. 

Reconnect the battery and check for sounding action, in case a crimp has been fumbled.

Use the double-sided tape to affix the buzzer atop one of the relays. 

=== Photos ===

(Click on images for larger view)

[[Image:Headlight Buzzer 1984 Westy 1.JPG|left|240px|Buzzer squatting atop unwilling relay. Click on picture for larger image.]][[Image:Headlight Buzzer 1984 Westy 2.JPG|240px]] 

 

Note: Mr Squirrel is aware that it is not clear how exactly the buzzer finds a path to ground when Fuse #12 is unpowered. But the buzzer only requires 15mA to operate so something is working. 

--[[User:Rocky Squirrel|Rocky Squirrel]] 20:20, 24 June 2010 (UTC)

 

=== 1986 and newer models ===

For another way, on 1986 and newer models, see [http://shufti.wordpress.com/2010/05/15/headlight-on-warning-chime-mod/ this procedure].

--[[User:Albell|Albell]] 04:45, 25 June 2010 (UTC)

Lights Left On Buzzer 83/84

2010-06-25T04:42:06Z

Albell:

==  Headlights Left on Buzzer Modification ==

''This modification has been tested in Mr Squirrel's 1984 Westfalia, Mellow Yellow. Wiring differences between camper versions and standard version of Vanagons as well as changes made to the wiring over the years by Volkswagen and Previous Owners makes it essential that you don't trust any of the information here, and verify your own van's wiring before plunging in.'' 

Mr Squirrel is not as smart as he wishes he was and has found on more than one occasion that he forgot to turn off the lights. So he put together this warning buzzer. Here's how it goes: 

=== Identifying My Signals ===

I wanted to find an easy way to wire a buzzer into the van without cutting wires, which means I was limited to working on the fuse panel. So I hoped to find a pair of fuses that could power a small 12VDC buzzer when the ignition is off but the headlight switch is not.

With my trusty voltmeter, I built a "truth table" of fuse voltages, as shown here: 

{| style="text-align: center; width: 100%;" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"
|-
| colspan="6" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | CONDITION 
| colspan="12" rowspan="2" style="vertical-align: top;" | FUSE # 
|-
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | KEY 
| colspan="4" rowspan="1" style="vertical-align: top;" | HEADLIGHT 
SWITCH 

|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | OFF 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | ON 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2-LO 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2-HI 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 2 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 3 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 4 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 5 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 6 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 7 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 8 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 9 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 10 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 11 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 12 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0
|-
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top; background-color: rgb(153, 255, 153);" | 0
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|-
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | X 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 0 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
| style="vertical-align: top;" | 1 
|}

 

''Truth Table for my 1984 Westfalia ONLY. Ignition Key is shown in OFF and ON positions, Headlight Switching is shown in four conditions: Main switch OFF (0), Main Switch set to middle, parking light position (1), Main switch set to ON (2) position and beams set to low, and with beams set to hi. Voltages on the fuses measured under all eight combinations, a "0" indicating no volts, a "1" indicating 12 volts. Build your own truth table for your vehicle before proceeding. ''

The condition for when I wanted the buzzer to sound was when the ignition was off, but the light switch NOT off. This is shown in the green section of the table. Next, I needed to find two fuses: one with power under these conditions, and second with no power under these conditions. If I could find such a pair then I could connect the buzzer between them. As can be seen, Fuses #1 and #2 are powered while Fuses #10, #11, #12 have no power in the green section. 

So I have my candidate fuses. 

=== Testing ===

Always disconnect the battery ground terminal before fussing around with the electrical bits. 

Using clip leads, I connected my buzzer's red "+" wire to Fuse #2, and the buzzer's black "-" wire to Fuse #12, reconnected the battery and played with the ignition and headlight switches and the buzzer indeed sounded only when the ignition was off but the lights were on. Perfect.

=== Installation ===

These instructions assume that you know how to drop the fuse panel and know how to work around the electrical bits. 

Parts I used:

*One buzzer. Radio Shack P/N 273-055A. David Beierl suggested this device. It's designed for 12V, and emits an annoying whine, kind of like Paul Simon.
*Two insulated push-on female quick-disconnect in .250 size, for 18-22 gauge wire. 
*Two .250 quick-disconnect adapters: single-female, dual-male, like Pico Wiring p/n 1595 as shown here: [http://picowiring.com/pdf/PICO-11.pdf http://picowiring.com/pdf/PICO-11.pdf]
*Bit of double-sided sticky tape. 
*Crimping tool.

Crimp insulated female quick disconnects to each of the buzzer's wires. 

Disconnect the battery and pull the fuse panel; work it around so  the backside is accessible. I had to remove Relay #19 to get to the rear of Fuse #12. 

On the rear of Fuse #12, I disconnect the black/yellow wire and install one of the adapters onto the now-unused tab. Push the black/yellow wire back on to one of the two male tabs on the adapter, and push the buzzer's black wire onto the other other tab on the adapter. 

On the rear of Fuse #2, disconnect the gray/red wire, install the other adapter, push the gray/red wire onto one of the two tabs, and push the buzzer's red wire onto the other. 

Reconnect the battery and check for sounding action, in case a crimp has been fumbled.

Use the double-sided tape to affix the buzzer atop one of the relays. 

=== Photos ===

(Click on images for larger view)

[[Image:Headlight Buzzer 1984 Westy 1.JPG|left|240px|Buzzer squatting atop unwilling relay. Click on picture for larger image.]][[Image:Headlight Buzzer 1984 Westy 2.JPG|240px]] 

 

Note: Mr Squirrel is aware that it is not clear how exactly the buzzer finds a path to ground when Fuse #12 is unpowered. But the buzzer only requires 15mA to operate so something is working. 

--[[User:Rocky Squirrel|Rocky Squirrel]] 20:20, 24 June 2010 (UTC)

For another way, on 1986 and newer models, see [http://shufti.wordpress.com/2010/05/15/headlight-on-warning-chime-mod/ this procedure].

File:IMG 1707.jpg

2010-06-16T05:15:37Z

Albell:

File:Img 1382.jpg

2010-06-16T05:15:11Z

Albell:

File:Img 1380.jpg

2010-06-16T05:14:47Z

Albell:

File:Img 1379.jpg

2010-06-16T05:11:06Z

Albell:

File:Img 1377.jpg

2010-06-16T05:05:52Z

Albell:

File:Img 1374.jpg

2010-06-16T05:01:49Z

Albell:

Testing the viscous coupling

2010-06-03T16:25:03Z

Albell: Created page with 'There is a dearth of information as to how to test the function of a viscous coupling installed in the Vanagon Syncro. Below are some links that might help. Starting with the bes…'

There is a dearth of information as to how to test the function of a viscous coupling installed in the Vanagon Syncro. Below are some links that might help. Starting with the best, [http://go2.wordpress.com/?id=725X1342&site=shufti.wordpress.com&url=http%3A%2F%2Fusers.rcn.com%2Fderekdrew%2Fvanagon%2Fviscous_couplings_vanagon_syncro.htm&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fshufti.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F11%2F20%2Fviscous-coupling-link-dump%2F Derek Drew’s comprehensive analysis and test procedures.]

Another approach is to measure the torque required to turn one front wheel as described in this [http://go2.wordpress.com/?id=725X1342&site=shufti.wordpress.com&url=http%3A%2F%2Fshufti.files.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F11%2Ffhps_sb46-0005-0101.pdf&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fshufti.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F11%2F20%2Fviscous-coupling-link-dump%2F link to a Volvo document]. Syncro owners are encouraged to try this test and report findings here. Perhaps a range of torque values can be gathered and related to viscous coupling behaviour. 

A [http://go2.wordpress.com/?id=725X1342&site=shufti.wordpress.com&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.nasioc.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D523781&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fshufti.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F11%2F20%2Fviscous-coupling-link-dump%2F discussion on the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club], and extracts from a SAE paper on how the VC works (not bad, still does not fully explain how the plates are forced together in the “humping” stage). This Subaru site has a few discussions about vc function and testing, its worth a look around.

Fix floppy mirror

2010-06-03T15:13:10Z

Albell:

I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:

 

#remove mirrors.
#unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, & the spring.
#soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.
#use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).
#use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.
#IMPORTANT: lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil)
#maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)
#re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.

 As I said, I've done this will 3 sets in the past month and I offered a set to my mechanic FREE just for the parts swap. He nearly fell over in shock of a customer making this offer TO him.

 I can post photos if anyone desires. I will also offer to sell a set re-vitalized of mirrors to anyone who is willing to sent their Dumbo mirrors to me in return.

 I do believe it was Chris Turner who suggested this mirror 'fix'. If it was not Chris, then my appologies to the correct author.

Malcolm (Halifax, NS)

Another popular fix for floppy mirror syndrome is the insertion of a thin rubber washer in the ball and socket joint. Disassemble as above, but but add a rubber washer between the "ball" of the mirror mount and the "socket" of the mirror arm. Originally posted on The Samba, [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=161648&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=floppy in this thread]. 

 

 

Originally posted to the vanagon list: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&L=vanagon&P=R4385]

[[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Workarounds]] [[Category:Repairs]]

Fix floppy mirror

2010-06-03T15:12:33Z

Albell:

I have fixed 3 sets of floppy mirrors in the past month. In all 3 cases the shaft, on which the adjuster tries to snug up the mirror adjustment, was RUSTED in place, and that's WHY the mirrors can't be adjusted and why they flop like Dumbo's ears. I did the following:

 

#remove mirrors.
#unscrew the bottom nut, remove the washers, & the spring.
#soak the adjustment parts in penetrating oil for a few days.
#use a rubber hammer to BEAT the bottom of the swivel off the shaft (maybe cleaning up the shaft with corse sandpaper will help).
#use sandpaper to clean-up the shaft and sliding part.
#IMPORTANT: lubricate the assembly prior to re-assembly (I used Krown.com anti-rust oil)
#maybe re-paint the mirrors to match your van :-)
#re-assemble, re-tighten, re-mount the mirrors.

 As I said, I've done this will 3 sets in the past month and I offered a set to my mechanic FREE just for the parts swap. He nearly fell over in shock of a customer making this offer TO him.

 I can post photos if anyone desires. I will also offer to sell a set re-vitalized of mirrors to anyone who is willing to sent their Dumbo mirrors to me in return.

 I do believe it was Chris Turner who suggested this mirror 'fix'. If it was not Chris, then my appologies to the correct author.

Malcolm (Halifax, NS)

Another popular fix for floppy mirror syndrome is the insertion of a thin rubber washer in the ball and socket joint. Disassemble as above, but but add a rubber washer between the "ball" of the mirror mount and the "socket" of the mirror arm. Originally posted on Samba, [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=161648&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=floppy in this thread]. 

 

Originally posted to the vanagon list: [http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0611A&L=vanagon&P=R4385]

[[Category:Remove_and_Replace]] [[Category:Workarounds]] [[Category:Repairs]]

User:Albell

2010-06-01T17:54:45Z

Albell: Created page with ' Hi, my name is Alistair and I like Vanagons. I have a [http://shufti.wordpress.com/ blog], and a neglected [http://www.members.shaw.ca/albell website] both with good V…'

 Hi, my name is Alistair and I like Vanagons. I have a [http://shufti.wordpress.com/ blog], and a neglected [http://www.members.shaw.ca/albell website] both with good Vanagon info, although the blog is where I post more often now.

Delay dim interior lights

2010-06-01T17:36:38Z

Albell:

 Installing a delay dim interior light in drivers side.

Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s golf/jetta carat/wolfsburg models, looks like standard vanagon interior light with some added circuitry, (VW part number, 191947111 “interior light with delayed switch-off”). Get it with the connector, cut the wires on donor about 4 inches long.

Stock drivers side interior light pries out. Cut the wires about 2" from light. 

Very simple splicing, 2 red wires (power) on van to the light’s 2 reds, the 2 brown wires on van (ground) to matching 2, and the brown with white stripe on van (switched ground, door switch) to matching wire. Pictures below show butt connecters used.

Reinstall light. Its about a 6-8 second delay after last door closes.

The bonus is that the delay works on all the lights and all the doors, slider, back hatch, pass. door (if you have door switches on slider and back hatch ). Yup, just by installing that one light at driver’s position.

[[Image:Img 1064.jpg|thumb|left|200px|view of circuitry]]

[[Image:Img 1062.jpg|thumb|left|200px|light]]

[[Image:Img 1061.jpg|thumb|left|200px|connections]]

Delay dim interior lights

2010-06-01T17:28:17Z

Albell: Created page with ' Installing a delay dim interior light in drivers side. Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s golf/jetta carat/wolfsburg models, looks like standard vanagon inter…'

 Installing a delay dim interior light in drivers side.

Light is from a late ’80′s early ’90′s golf/jetta carat/wolfsburg models, looks like standard vanagon interior light with some added circuitry, (VW part number, 191947111 “interior light with delayed switch-off”). Get it with the connector, cut the wires on donor about 4 inches long.

Stock drivers side interior light pries out. Cut the wires about 2" from light, or pull off spade connections if you want to connect to new light via male/female spades. Pictures below shows but connecters used.

Very simple splicing, 2 red wires (power) on van to the light’s 2 reds, the 2 brown wires on van (ground) to matching 2, and the brown with white stripe on van (switched ground, door switch) to matching wire. 

Reinstall light. Its about a 6-8 second delay after last door closes.

The bonus is that the delay works on all the lights and all the doors, slider, back hatch, pass. door (if you have door switches on slider and back hatch ). Yup, just by installing that one light at driver’s position.

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[[Image:Img 1062.jpg]][[Image:Img 1061.jpg]]

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2010-06-01T17:25:59Z

Albell: delay dim interior light

delay dim interior light

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2010-06-01T17:25:02Z

Albell: delay dim interior light

delay dim interior light

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2010-06-01T17:23:21Z

Albell: delay dim interior light

delay dim interior light

Fuse panel 1986 G and M Connectors

2010-06-01T14:50:22Z

Albell: Created page with ' Fuse panel information... the start of a collection. “G” and “M” connectors on ’86 fuse panel The group of (mostly unused) spade connectors on back of panel…'

Fuse panel information... the start of a collection.

“G” and “M” connectors on ’86 fuse panel

 The group of (mostly unused) spade connectors on back of panel have some interesting properties, especially G10. There is a diagram in the Bentley Manual illustrating the terminals, and they are number on the fuse panel itself. Here is what I decoded, on an 1986 Syncro GL.  

G1 – X bus controlled power, fused through S12 (20A) G2 – #15 ignition switched power fused through S18 (10A) G3 – X bus controlled power, fused through S12 (20A) G4 – D+ alternator trigger circuit via alt. led light G5 – #15 ignition switched power fused through S18 (10A) G6 – dead end G7 – power when headlights on G8 – dimmer controlled dash light power G9 – license plate lights power fused through S20 (10A) G10 – power when windshield wipers run

and the M connections close by:

M1 – connected to G7 M2 – power with lowbeams

Headlight Relay Install

2010-06-01T14:40:13Z

Albell:

1980 -1985 Vanagons

Parts Needed:

*2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type that have a tab for screwing to a flat surface.

*8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire

*2 - 40 amp relays, four pin, VW/Audi #141 951 253 B

*1 - double terminal end extender

*8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow

*8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white

*16" - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red

*24" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown

*2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire

*6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.

 

 Installation Procedure for 1980 - 1985 Vanagons

New relay kits are now completley pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed. Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits. Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.

 

*12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.
*12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.
*12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.
*14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with uninsulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.
*14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.
*14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.

 Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position 7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights. Fuse 7 should have a 16 amp fuse. Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8" red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal. Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays.

NOTE - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.

Next, take two 12" 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends. Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket. While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector. If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out. Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block. This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and low beam headlamp fuses, #3 & #4 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86. Take the 8" yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.

 

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse 6 the single 12 gauge white input wire that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 & #6 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86. Take the 8" white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.

Now, push the relays into the relay sockets. Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.

Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power !

If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out. If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps. Use the next size higher amperage fuse. Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.

Ken Lewis write up [http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/upgrades/headlight-relay/index.htm here]

Alistair Bell's diagram of his install on an '82 diesel westy. Separate power feed line added in this case.

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2010-06-01T14:38:47Z

Albell: headlight relay diagram with added power feed

headlight relay diagram with added power feed

Prop shaft alignment

2010-05-28T17:39:59Z

Albell: syncro propeller shaft alignment

This is an outline of procedure to reduce or eliminate syncro propeller shaft (drive shaft) vibrations. Often these vibrations occur at road speeds of around 50-70 kph. Assumption made that propeller shaft not bent or otherwise damaged, and that rear transmission and front differential are in good working order. Also this procedure is geared towards the stock VW propeller shaft, not after market shafts with slip joints and double cardan joints etc.

*first make sure the u joints have no play at all. Try and move the bearing cups and yokes. They yokes should be snug and smooth moving.
*if U joints need replacing due to worn or frozen bearings, then Precision brand, part #813 will fit if grease nipple port is plugged with short bolt.
*make sure the internal bushings at guibo end (rubber damper end) are not worn out. U-joint yoke should be a tight fit with no slop (and shaft greased). If bushings and or yoke shaft worn then take to machinist to fit new bronze (or Oilite) bushings and have yoke shaft machined to remove wear and to fit. Or machine it yourself if you can. There are two bushings, one at the end and one deeper inside driveshaft. They can be removed with a 1" tap. In the UK there is a replacement poly bushing available for the end bushing.
*guibo should be intact with no rips, tears, rubber degradation,  and bolted up to proper torque.
*measure flange angles on both trans and front diff. they should be  equal and probably best if 4 degrees from vertical or less. I *believe* the stock set up is having flange faces angled down at 4 degrees or less. Don't shim to have flanges perfectly vertical. The joints should have some angle on them to allow the needle bearings to wear evenly. 
*adjust front diff (or trans if needed) with shim(s). For example, add shims to front diff. front mount to make input flange face down more.
*measure lateral alignment and adjust transmission and or front diff to align, centre on centre.
*recheck flange angles.

Install propeller shaft and test drive. If vibrations still persist, try loosening the front differential mounting bolts a bit and drive for a few miles. This may allow the front differential to align itself to shaft. Tighten bolts back up. 

links:

[http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/ Herman's Blog] with propshaft info

[http://shufti.wordpress.com/ Another blog] with alignment and propshaft info (author's blog)

[http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Syncro_prop_shaft_bush_replacement Link] to polybushing